Saturday 16 June 2018

How to Sew Plastic Free - Fastenings


Well Hello, I feel like it's been ages since I posted - it has. We have had computer issues and the blogger app no longer works on my Ipad. I have posted via bloglovin' and you can follow me there too. But hey, computer sorted and I can now access all my blog stuff.

Back in May, I pledged to sew plastic free for June - specifically fastenings. So far I have succeeded. In fact I haven't really sewn anything as I've been busy with work over the last few weeks. I've been doing quite a bit of felt making and considered how I could make felted buttons/ beads - I'm still exploring that one.

So here I am wondering how I can avoid plastic buttons and zips in my sewing. This is what I've come up with and how these items may be used.

Zips
Plastic zips are the most common fastening I use; all my RTW clothes have them and they are easy to find and buy. But what about the alternative? Metal zips. Currently the only place I see metal zips are in jeans and trousers and coats/ jackets, all dress zips seem to be plastic. I think this is due to the wieght. Metal zips are heavier and might not suit a light weight dress. However, those of you who have vintage clothing will be used to seeing metal zips in dresses and skirts, usually installed as a lapped zipper. The advantages are that metal zips are generally more robust, there is less stretching and puckering when installing them and they and be easily shortened and adjusted. It might be worth trying a metal zip even in a dress, unless it is a very lightweight fabric.

Buttons
I have a large stash of buttons - and they are all plastic. Finding alternatives is tricky, but not impossible. One of the easiest solutions is to buy metal self-covered buttons. These are available in many sizes and once covered match perfectly with the garment. I think self covered buttons look stunning on delicate blouses and tops. other options include wood, shell, glass, leather, ceramic and metal to name but a few. Again many vintage garments will be found to have nonplastic buttons. I hope to try and make some ceramic buttons soon.

Hooks & Eyes/ press studs
The most easily sourced nonplastic fastening in my opinion. Most bar hooks and hooks and eyes are metal, simply because the design lends itself to a metal construction. The best press studs are also metal and they can be manufactured to a high standard. Plastic press studs are generally inferior. The beauty of these types of fastenings is that the fastening is hidden giving a sleek appreance to the garment or accessory.

Snaps and buckles
Again due to the nature of these types of fastenings, metal is better. I often use snap fastning on jacket cuffs and they are great on childrens wear. Some of my favourite fastings are the metal dungaree buckles when paired with a brass antique effect jeans button. I only need one set and I just transfer them to whichever garment I'm wearing, rather than buying multiple sets.

Eyelets
Eyelets are very popular at the moment and I've seen a lot used as design features in garments. I mostly use these when making corsets, but they can be fantastic when paired with decorative laces as a fastening or feature on different garments.

Other options
There are quite a few options for using fabric as a fastening. For example, traditional Chinese corded buttons or frogging can be bought or made (if you have the patience).

Consider if your garment actually needs a fastening. Many times I've made shift dresses with zips in, only to discover I can actually just pull them on! My favourite way to avoid using a button on a keyhole fastening is to add thin rouleau loops to each edge and then just tie them together. If the garment has a bias bound neck, that becomes even easier, as I just lengthen the bias strip, stitch the edges together and tie.


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