Sunday, 29 October 2017

Vintage Casual my way

Gertie Trousers. I've had the cigarette trousers from Gertie Sews VinatgeCasual on my radar to sew for some time. I traced the pattern ages ago but lost confidence after trying another pants pattern and having to start from scratch to get anything even close to wearable.
However, some super stretchy woven cotton made it way into my stash (birthday pressie from my mum). I decided to take another look at the pattern and thought I'd give it a go.
The pattern was remarkably close to my own draft - just a bit narrower on the hips, and since making jeans from my pattern in the summer I needed to reduce the width here anyway. However, I didn't want trousers with a back zip - it's just not me.

Changes to the pattern:-
I kept the silhouette the same but used the waistband facing as a template for the waistband.
The back waistband was kept the same, but as the front waistband is usually cut on the fold I added seam allowances and extra to account for the fly front. I also added 1.5cm seam allowance to the bottom edge of the facing pieces.
The front, back and pocket pieces were adapted by tracing the facing pieces and then adding 1.5 seam allowances to the top edge.
The fly front was added and I used the Ginger Jeans sew along method for sewing this. I'd found it really helpful when making my jeans in the summer.

All my changes meant that the pattern finished at the same point on the waist, but the design lines were altered a little. I should have made the pockets deeper really, but I think they'll be ok for this fabric.
The stretch in the fabric meant that these are super comfy and have a good recovery, they looked good all day when wearing them.

I would highly recommend using fabric with a good amount of stretch. It aids comfort and can help with minor fitting issues. I would lengthen these just a bit as I had to sew really tiny hems.

A great basic pattern and plenty of options for customising the design lines of this style.


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