Tuesday 29 December 2020

2020: The year of Coats and knickers


I don't know about 'Fur coat and no knickers' - more like 5 coats and lots of knickers (well underwear anyway).

Just the other day I looked back at my plans for this year You can read this here, I actually did quite well with the sewing plans, but then had lots of unplanned makes too. 

I planned to make:

  • Burnside bibs

  • Sew Over it Pussy bow blouse
  • My friends wedding dress
  • Burdastyle trousers

  • The Assembly Line Hoodie Parka

  • A Hobbs style dress

  • A wool coat

  • Upcycle some scraps
  • Mend my pink Seamed dress.

To some degree I did all of these. My upcycling was a bit lacklustre and I ended up getting rid of a bin bag full of scraps as I couldn't store them. I started making the SOI pussy bow blouse, but didn't feel the love and ended up using a different shirt pattern instead. I also mended the dress, but the fabric has faded quite a lot and it needs to be retired - the fabric may well find itself part of a quilt sometime soon.

The wedding dress was finished, but the wedding has been postponed until 2021 - so I won't be sharing any photos any time soon.

The big headlines for this year are coats and underwear. I began the year by making the Hoodie Parka. I opted to line this and adapted the construction to accomodate this. I didn't wear this much during the spring and summer, but it is a perfect transition coat. I've worn it most days since September for work, but it's starting to get a bit cold for it. It's a great beginners pattern for coat making.

Next up was the Goldstream peacoat for my Hubby. This was a massive learning curve as there was quite a bit of tailoring in this. I'm not sure how well it will stand up to extensive wear, but it's certainly been work quite a bit over the last few months.


In April I made a coat for my friend Judy. She asked me to copy the style of a coat she already owned and I traced it and created a new coat for her.

Once my eldest came back from Uni, he decided he wanted a 'Coach' jacket, but not really a coach jacket. So I ended up drafting a block from scratch to fit him. It's fairly basic and I've made the block available free - It's just one size and doesn't have any of the details included, just the basic shape. He loves it and wears it plenty.

Finally, over the last couple of months I made a wool coat, which included a lot more hand tailoring and was seriously worth it!

On the underwear front I became disheartened with the RTW bras that I had. The fit wasn't too good and I'd struggled to get the right size. I came accross the Boob or Bust Facebook page and after remeasuring myself, went for a wholly different size. I haven't yet tried this size in RTW as I can't try on instore yet. But I have made some bras. I'm still new to this and learning lots about fitting and making as I go along. 


The Watson Bra by Cloth habit has become my go to pattern, I have tried a Madalynne Simplicity 8436 underwired pattern with less than perfect results, and I'm still learning a lot about wire size and shape. I have some self drafted boy short style knickers and have adapted the Watson briefs to suite me and I love the fit of the Noelle High waisted panties.

So 2020 Makes  - This year I made 37 items. Most of them have been successful and lots have used up scraps and small pieces from my stash. Next year I hope to use more from the stash and plan to make/do at least some of the following:

  • Activewear - leggings that actually fit at the waist
  • Swimsuit
  • underwire bra
  • more knickers
  • sew up some of my stash
  • make a quilt from leftover fabrics
  • learn how to weave
  • A dress for my daughter
  • make more art and try some new techniques
  • do some crocheting

Wednesday 23 December 2020

Sewing Top 5: Goals

Last up in my sewcialist inspired posts - My sewing goals for the coming year. I've already written about the hits and misses, if you want to check those out and I have a post brewing all about the two main things I've been sewing this year.

During the summer months I sewed and created quite a bit, but as the night's have drawn in. I've been less productive. I've done a couple of refashions. but the light in my sewing room is poor and it's much better to work with natural daylight. This has put a hold on bigger projects and art work as I really need good light. I need to invest in a good daylight lamp for the room.

I have a few things that I'd like to try and challenge myself to next year, but not many specific plans in regards to patterns -As it stands these are my top 5 goals for 2021.

Underwired bra

I want to nail a well fitting underwire bra. I have the Cloth habit Watson Bra pretty much sorted now and I think it's time to get an underwire bra to fit well too. I'd like to try the Black Beauty Bra by Emeral Erin as it has some great reviews and I like the style. I'm also not adverse to drafting my own and I have the Bare Essentials Bra drafting course book to have a go at too. I love the challenge of drafting!


Swimwear

I bought a swimwear pattern back in the summer, but when our holiday was cancelled I decided to leave sewing it until next year. I've never made a swimsuit and would love to have a go. I have this pattern - If you've made it do let me know how you got on?


A quilt

Despite getting rid of a binbag full of scraps i still have loads of cotton offcuts that would be perfect for a quilt. My hubby would like a king size one for our bed and I think I'll get started on it - I might not finish it though, my last two took ages!!!!

The Kalle Shirt

I must be the only person in the sewing blogosphere to have not yet made this. This will be rectified this year - not sure if I'll make the shirt or dress version yet. The Kalle pattern is from Closet Core patterns


A Velvet Dress

Many years ago I bought a cotton stretch velvet dress on ebay. It's a Monsoon dress and is fit and flare, empire line and midi length. It's well past it's best and starting to develop holes, so I am on the look out for some suitable fabric to make a replacement. I'm sure it's form the 90's. I could buy another on etsy, which is where this image is from, but I think I'd rather make one. Mine is like this:-




Sunday 20 December 2020

Sewing top 5: Misses

 


Second post inspired by the Sewcialists sewing tops hashtag -  #sewingtop5. This one is the misses, those items that weren't quite right. Thankfully there have not been too many of these this year.

First up.

Gathered back tank

This was a free pattern and I tried it twice, it was just huge and gapey and I didn't like it.

 


Simplicity 8436

This is a Madalynne underwired bra. I love the design. I managed to get these to fit, but there is just something about it that is off. I made 3 versions. first up a cream lace version. I think my wires were too short here and they really dig into the chest wall. I think it's the poor qulaity channeling. I also had issues with the underarm edge. The second version I tried in a stretch woven and it was just horrific and went in the scrap pile. For verion 3 I tried a bigger wire size and invested in better underwire chanelling. It's better, but now I think I want to widen the back band as it's very narrow and not supportive.

 

Cleo Dungaree dress

There is nothing wrong with this. I'm just not going to wear it. I'm not sure the fabric choice is really me. It's modelled here by my daughter. I just don't find myself choosing this, which is a shame.

Faux Jumpsuit

This is a hit and a miss. I really thought I wanted a wrap style jumpsuit. I really loved this fabric. I made this in two pieces, both free patterns from peppermint magazine. I love the wide leg pants. I'm not 100% sure about the top, but it's quite nice, but together it's just way off!!!!

Denim Wrap skirt

I didn't lose anything with this one. It's ok, the fabric was a scrap I had in my stash and the pattern was one I recieved from a lady on Freecycle. Again, nothing wrong with it, but I think it needs a bit of tweaking to make it a really good option. I might make this again. I might wear it again, but again, I'm just not choosing to wear it.


So What are your misses for 2020? 

Next Up: goals for 2021

Wednesday 16 December 2020

Sewing top 5 - Hits

Well it's certainly been an interesting year, but in search of some normality I decided to take part in the Sewcialists sewing top 5's of 2020 and today it's the hits!!!!

These are the sewing wins of 2020. Those Items that have recieved a lot of love or I feel have challenged my sewing skills in a good way, (Links will take you to the original post), so here goes...

First up

Hoodie Parka

This is a great pattern from The Assembly Line. It's an unlined coat, but I added a lining and despite not wearing it much when I first made it (thanks Lockdown) I have worn it almost daily since September and haven't yet swiched into true winterwear as this is perfect for work.

Solina Dress 

This is from the Breaking the Pattern book from Named clothing. I'd seen a few of these made up last year and loved the midi length and the slight fullness - not going complete wilder gown over here as I know it won't suit me, but this dress has been a firm favourite and worn weekly since it was made in the spring. It's been a great addition to my work wardrobe.

Lago Tank

This freebie from Itch to stitch patterns was a scrap buster and got a boat load of wear over the summer. I didn't expect it to be great, but I've loved wearing it - yes I know the back neckline puckers a bit, but it's been perfect for pairing with my tatty refashioned jean shorts and hanging around in the garden.


Layered Shirt

This was my first ambitious project of the year. I'd had this design pinned for ages and the instructions/ pattern layout are from Studio Faro. I drafted it using the Saraste shirt as a basic block and was incredibly happy that it turned out so well. I wore it until the weather cooled and sleeveless cotton tops are just a bit unseasonal - but I'm sure it will be worn next year.


Finally, my most recent make

Wool coat

I used proper tailoring techniques and really took my time with this. I really love it, but haven't had cause to wear it yet. Maybe when Covid restrictions ease it will get some wear. its way too good for tramping around in the rain and mud - which is all I seem to do at the moment!!!

What are your top 5 things of 2020?

Next Up: Sewing Misses - I'll be hard pressed to keep it to 5!!!!


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