First Steps in Bra making

I'm still not convinced that bra making is worth it. There I said it! I struggle with Bra fitting at the best of times and don't want to spend lots on materials that just don't fit.

I would love to have a bra that fits really well and looks good and that I have made. But there are so many factors that affect fit that it is a minefield.

I wanted to document my first faltering steps and hopefully as time goes on I'll be able to have some successes. - Please be aware that the bras don't fit well on my dressform.

So a couple of years ago I bought the Cloth Habit Watson Bra set. Super simple and no pesky underwires to deal with. I made the size suggested and had a bit of wrinkling in the upper cups, which I pinched out of the seam and it seemed to fit ok. I also shortened the band quite a bit as it was very loose. The instructions were easy to follow and the bra is wearable and I do wear it sometimes. But just look at that shoddy sewing of elastics at the back - that's not going to last much longer!

Fastforward to lockdown and inspired by the many beautiful makes by Small Bobbins I decided to have another go, but wanted to tackle an underwired plunge style - as that's what I wear the most in RTW. I settled on Simplicity 8436 as I liked the design.

I bought a kit from Timeless Fabrics which came with the materials and the pattern

Stretch mesh was supplied to line the bra, but it was super lightweight and there was not enough elastics included to finish the bra. I have contacted them and and they are going to send me some more elastic - yay (they arrived in just a couple of days - excellent customer service!!!!).

My measurements for this pattern put me between a 34B and 36A. After measuring the pattern pieces and testing the stretch of the fabric there was no way I was going to make this size. So I cut the 32C to start. and made a quick test with some fabric scraps and it looked about right. I then sewed up my bra in the kit fabric. I used the sewalong by Liz Sews to help me construct it, and it came together well. I did swap out the mesh for a slightly firmer Powernet on the band.

Once made, I tried on - way too loose. The bridge was too wide, under the arms gaped a little and the band was loose. The cups were ok on the whole. I carefully took it apart. Tightened the underarm elastic (but still not enough), reduced the width of the bridge and cut an inch from the end of the band. Much better and certainly wearable, but the wires are not long enough and there is quite a lot of loose fabric under the arm, which looks odd.

Take two - This time I used the firmest powernet I had and shortened it (mistake - I should have left it at the 32 length first!!!!).

I used a woven with a slight stretch for the cups and bridge - which I stablised. I used Picot elastic from my supplies for the neck and underarm edges.

I managed to twist one of the straps during construction. I also reduced the height of the under arms by a cm to fit the wires. This did work with the wires, but the Bra is sooooooo tight I could barely fasten it. the darts were also pointy and made me realise that they might be a bit too long. There is no way I can wear this bra. I'll be taking it to bits to reclaim the hardwear and elastics. And look at the skipped stitches - that didn't happen on my other Bras!

To try next - 32 band + my narrowed bridge and the 34B cup (I know what you are thinking - that should be the same volume - That's what I thought, but when I measured it the 34C cups were the same volume). This should reduce the dart length, I hope it will also reduce the sides so I can fit my underwires - yes they are the right type and size as specified by the pattern - and I'll be using some fabric with stretch next time - I'm determined to make this work!!!!.

I have also butchered another failed project to try a second Watson bra. I made the Madalynne Sierra wrap bra a while ago, but it squashed what little I had flat and needs serious adapting to make it work. However It contained loads of stretch lace and plenty of elastic, so I reclaimed it and made another Watson. I like the finish and style of this one.

I decided to try a different size as my first version is ok, but I feel the band didn't lie flat  under my bust and doesn't look flattering. I had been recommended Boob or Bust as an online caculator and Facebook bra fitting group. I have always struggled with sizing and once I inputted my measurements - checked 3 times it gave me a starting size of 30DD - WHATTTTTTT. There is no way I'm going to buy a load of Bras to try on and send back if they don't fit, and of course there are no changing rooms open in the stores at the moment so I decided to try the Watson in that size - as it's an American pattern it's a Size 30E. I really didn't think this would work for me, but I gave it a go anyway.

The band is very snug, but not uncomfortable and I think I can increase it by about 0.5cm and it will be perfect. The width of the base of the cups is much better and fits flat against my chest wall. The cups have a tiny bit of excess fabric in the upper cup, which I need to pinch out and transer to the pattern, just the same as the smaller size did, but otherwise it's a good fit. My strap elastic is very smooth and slips through the sliders a bit too easily, so I'm going to just make it the right length and not adjustable. I will be making another one of these in the next couple of weeks from some jersey offcuts. I even think I have enough for a matching pair of Knickers. Watch this space and lets see what I can get to fit - wish me luck!