Wednesday, 29 March 2017

Trousers Toile Take Two

So after the horror that was my first attempt at fitted trousers, I decided to draft my own. I used metric pattern cutting for women's wear by Aldrich.

I compared my measurements with the size charts. My hips are two sizes bigger than my waist. So I just used my own measurements rather than going from the chart. I used the instructions for the close fitting trousers and jeans (please excuse the foreshortenting on the photos, my legs are not this short).

The first attempt was better, but I'd sewn wrong sides together and ended up with some seams inside out. There were still some issues.

The fit at the front was better, but the sides at the hip were too big and the waist at the back was also too big. Not to mention the large amount of excess fabric in the back. Initially I pinched out a wedge under the butt, but decided to look at the crotch curve first.

I scooped out more room, both on the front and the back, using some trousers that fit me well as a template. The fit seems to be more comfortable.

You can see that there is still some fabric under the butt and the back waistband is too low.
You can also see that my calf is quite extended this is causing some of the issues in the back.
The waist is still a bit big, which means the front is slipping down a little, which doesn't help the front crotch line.

I pinned out the excess under the butt and folded this out of the pattern.

I also pinned out the vertical excess in the back thigh and transferred this to my pattern, keeping the calf at the original width.

I slimmed the side seams just a little and think I need to draft a curved waistband to accommodate the large difference between my hip and waist and my swayback.

You can see some of my adjustments here.  My draft is getting closer to the silhouette that I'm after, but I'm still not there yet. I think I need a pants fitting book to help with the fine tuning. Looking at getting 'Pants for real people', what do you think about this book?

Ready to make the next toile, think I might make a wide leg draft too - when I've got this one sorted.

Monday, 20 March 2017

Trouser troubles


Well Sewists. I need your help.
Sewing skirts and dresses is something I can do well, but pants (trousers) I have only sewn very lose culotte styles in the past. I am determined to get a slim fitting pant pattern that I can use as a base. I really liked the look of Burdastyle Magazine 02/2014 #129. (I sewed 38 at the waist to 40 at the hip and leg. I added 1.5cm SA, but ended up sewing the allowance at 1cm)
This is a pattern drafted for fabric with some stretch. I made my draft in a cotton twill with absoluetly no stretch at all. The muslin is almost identical in measurement to a pair of jeans I have that fit, but are snug. But Denim has a bit more give!
I'm certain if I had made these in a fabric with stretch they would be wearable, but I'd like a pattern that fits really well and I need your advice to help get the best draft from this starting point.
I'm sure there are those of you out there who sew trousers a lot and could offer some advice to help me adjust the pattern for non stretch fabric.

So, what are the issues? (those I can Identify)
Too tight in the lower thigh, just above my knee.

Too tight in the butt.

Too Tight over the calf.

Side seam pulling backwards and gaping pockets

I think there might be some Crotch issues as well, but some of those might resolve with the width issues.

Question is - do I just add at the side seams/ inseam? or do I need to do some slash and spread of the pattern - if so where?

I'd really appreciate it if you could offer any insight to help me resolve this.

Monday, 6 March 2017

It's been a while...

Since I posted. November in fact.
I didn't intend to leave it so long, but hey, life happened and I was busy living it rather than writing about it. Christmas and new year came and went.  and here we are at the end of February beginning of March, Today the sun is shining and last week was the first day of the year when I went to work and arrived home in daylight.

It's now a week after half term and I had a bit of me time. Its been hectic over the last few weeks.
So what have I been up to?

Way back in September, My Daughter and I joined the local Pantomime Society. At the end of January all the hard work came to fruition in a week of performances of "Cinderella in Panto Land". It was great fun and we are both keen to take part again next year.

For Christmas my sister and brother in law bought me this stunning fabric. I had to make it up straight away. I used the Audrey Hepburn inspired pattern from the little black dress book.

 The drafting of the princess seams was a bit out and there was a lot of ease in the back, but a muslin later I had a workable bodice, to which I added a full circle skirt. I still have about 1.5m of this fabric left, so I'll be planning what to do with that (New Gertie dress maybe?)

I also used the pale blue/green double gauze I had from Fancy Moon last year to make the Asymmetric blouse from the 4/2014 Burdastyle magazine (this issue is the very best ever, IMHO). There was enought left over to squeeze a sorbetto tank out of. I love the sorbetto and wear the ones I have loads.

My Hubby also bought me burdastyle's digital drafting course, which uses Illustrator. I'd dabbled with Illustrator before, but not very successfully. This course covers the basics of Illustrator as well as drafting and grading using the programme. I've been spending quite a bit of time doing this and now have a workable t shirt pattern - more on that at another time! I'm also using the skills I've learnt to create a digital version of one of my drawings for a banner for church.

I have plenty of projects in the planning stages -a suit for my hubby; a refashioned coat; trousers and jeans. A dress inspired by one I saw last summer and of course party dresses. Too much cake, but I just can't help it.

I've also been working on a proposal for a participatory arts project. I'm still in the early stages of development but can't wait to get started.

My daughter is studying GCSE art, so we had a painting day yesterday (well 1.5 hrs), we did a bit of portaiture work. the proportions aren't great, but it was more about the technique than details. It's ages since I worked like this and I have a tendency to over work paintings. I need to know when to stop. but i'll use it as a demo piece for my students. I think my daiughter is really pleased with her version and I think she'll take it to school next week.


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