Long Shirt

 

This is one of those patterns that I have had on my ‘to make’ list for quite some time.
Since 2012 in fact. It’s pattern 117 from the 04/2012 issue of Burdastyle Magazine.

It’s a tunic-length shirt with a gathered flounce at the back. So it’s business in the front and party in the back. I’ll put it out there that it needs a much thicker belt - I’m going to make an obi style one to go with it and I think it will look fab with my pinstriped waistcoat. I also think it would benefit from being worn with slim trousers or leggings and a high heel. The length does shorten my already short legs!!!!! And accentuating the waist more will help balance my long torso. However, styling issues aside this is an absolute winner, mainly down to the fabric.

 

The fabric is a stable cotton sateen, which I have heard referred to as the dressmaker’s shirting, and I can see why. The hand of the fabric is smooth and silky to the touch. It’s light but keeps its shape and is a perfect transitional fabric. Light enough for cooler summer days and perfect for spring and autumn. I think you all owe me a huge shoutout today. It was the first time I wore this to work. I’m an art teacher and today involved clay, 3D modelling, acrylic paint, lino printing, painting and ink drawing and I still came home with this shirt clean - not sure how!

 

I love the weave on this fabric, it adds to the feel of luxury. It sews and presses beautifully, but I do recommend using a microtex needle to avoid any unwanted puckers.

 

As with most Burdastyle magazine patterns the instructions are minimal; for most patterns, I don’t use them. I normally cut a size 38, but for this shirt, I went down to the size 36 and I’m glad I did - the 38 would have been too big. The collar and cuffs and the top part of the back ‘skirt’ section are interfaced with iron-on interfacing. This is to support the weight of the ruffles, and it does pull back a little here, so it’s definitely needed. The collar is a flat collar designed to be worn open at the neck. I’m not a huge fan of this collar style and prefer a proper shirt collar, but I quite like it here.

 

I didn’t make any alterations for the main body, but I did flatten the sleeve cap and widen the sleeve a little as the original was very slim and I have wider biceps. The hem was sewn using a 3 step baby hem method, which I love to use on curved hems or fine fabric as it gives a nice flat finish.

 

I think this would make a good shirt to wear over the top of a slip dress or beach wear as it’s so light and airy.  Here’s waiting for my holiday to arrive!

 

Traveller Trousers

 

After my last make, which I love, I decided to try similar shape trousers, but with some unusual features. These are made from a pattern from the Burdastyle Magazine from a few years ago and are named the traveller trousers. I thought they'd be perfect in this purple linen. The sample in the magazine looked like it was made in a similar weight fabric to linen, so I went ahead with these.

 

 

Prior to making these, I prewashed the fabric as linen can sometimes shrink a little on its first wash and it always seems to have a nicer hand once it’s been laundered. I also carefully measured the pattern pieces to determine which size to make.

 

The illustration seems to imply these are a very loose fit, but the magazine photos looked quite snug. I did not want snug trousers! I usually cut a size 38 in Burdatyle, but I’m aware that my hips are at least a size 40 right now, mostly down to skating developing my thighs and butt!!!!

I ended up tracing the 42 leg, grading to 40 at the high hip and waist - I should have gone for the 38 at the waist!!!!!! There are lots of adjustment seams, but due to the construction methods, the back waistband is trickier to adjust once sewn.

The pattern features unusual seaming and pockets. There is a side insert that has two pockets, one at hip level and a deeper one at the thigh. The inserts then curve to a point at mid-calf where the front and back legs join. This pocket insert makes this at least an intermediate make and I wouldn’t advise it for beginners. The front has a fly and ties that are secured into the side seam of the waistband and run through the waistband as a channel, popping out through buttonholes.

It’s a very interesting design and was nice to sew in this fabric. I’m still in two minds about it and I think I should have graded to a smaller waist size. I ended up adding some elastic into the back waist, which is less than ideal to accommodate my sizing error. I do like the fit on the hip and legs though and this is a great one for travelling - It’d definitely going in my holiday suitcase. I just wish I’d taken a little more time to get the waistband fit right - hey but you live and learn and I made it work.

 

Summer Sewing

 

 

During the lovely warm spell we had a few weeks ago, I decided to make a simple summer slip dress. Typically, as soon as it was completed the weather cooled and it was sat in the draw waiting for a warm day.
Last Thursday was that day (which turned out to be more eventful). I popped on the dress and headed into town for a wee shopping trip with my daughter (fabric shop vouchers right).
This is a Burdastyle dress from the magazine. I can’t find exactly which one. All I remember is that it was a lining for another dress. The dress is cut on the bias and is super simple to sew up. It’s just two pattern pieces and some bias binding.

I have made this before and found that the front gaped a little as it was too wide, so I narrowed it just a little. I also ended up taking in the side seams just under the arms a bit. I’ve now made these changes to the pattern pieces.
Despite this being bias cut, it still has back waist darts to give shaping and bust darts. I sewed this up in this tiny skull print Dashwood Studio cotton poplin. The fabric is smooth and handles well. It has enough body that I didn’t need to consider a lining. Making bias binding with this fabric was a breeze. It presses well and holds its shape, but equally while wearing it didn’t crease much, making it perfect for holiday or travel wear.

I was originally going to make a longer dress but thought knee-length was better for this fabric. I had 3m and this dress took about 2m. The rest was made into shorts.

The day was certainly interesting. My daughter, hubby and I headed into Newcastle. First up my daughter and I headed to Pure Ink for new piercings. I got my nose done and my daughter had her nose and conch done. We celebrated her results and acceptance at Salford Uni with a cheeky Nandos and then headed to John Lewis for fabric. I bought rigid denim for some Dawn jeans. I was going to buy some needle cord, but it was badly faded and the shop assistant didnt seem to want to offer a discount, so I left it.

We had tea at home and my hubby and I set out for our regular session at the local indoor skatepark. I had big plans for dropping in on the big ramp, but while I was still warming up I slipped and landed awkwardly on my wrist. I knew it wasn't right and after 5 mins with an ice pack on, it was quite obviously broken, so we headed to A&E. Hence the following photos are of me sporting an attractive pink cast.

I digress, as I mentioned before, I also made shorts from this lovely Dashwood Studio skull print cotton poplin. I thought these would make cute skate shorts, but broken arm and I suspect once this cast is off it will be back to longer trousers!

The pattern I used is a bit of a mystery. I found it free online last year but now can’t find the source. I did make it up last year, but didn’t love the fabric and passed on the shorts to a friend. You can read about the pattern details here.

I altered the pockets so that they are anchored in the fly front and made them a little deeper. Shallow pockets are such a waste of space.

The zip and button were from my stash. The orange zip fits perfectly with the orange in the print. I’ve already worn these way more than the ones I made last year. Hoping that the rest of August brings some nice warm weather before I’m back to work in September.

Summer dress in Broderie Anglaise

Way way way before the current season of the Great British Sewing Bee had started. I had this project in mind. My daughter had seen a dress on a TV celebrity before Christmas and had said she wanted one similar to it. However, finding suitable fabric was a struggle and we kept putting it off! I had found a pattern in one of the Burdastyle magazines that I had. It’s pattern 111 from July 2015  It's very similar to the Orchidee dress, which has just been released by Deer and Doe, if you are looking for something more up to date.

Once she had seen this Broderie Anglaise fabric, she was more than happy for me to make the dress out of this. The fabric arrived just a day before the first episode of GBSB and once it had aired it seemed like the world went buffet dress and Broderie Anglaise mad.

This is NOT a buffet dress! (I’d never heard the term before GBSB and I’ve been sewing for over 10 years). This has a high neck at the back and a deep V front, which closes with buttons. The bodice is shaped with darts front and back and attached to a midriff band. The skirt is attached to the band. The original pattern called for a tiered skirt, but my daughter wanted a simple gathered skirt and ‘not too full”. The sleeves are almost raglan is style, but rather than finishing at the neckline the end just a couple of centimetres away from the neck edge.

The original pattern calls for a side zip and a self tie belt. I opted to intall the concealed zip in the back seam as I had a long enough one in my stash. I also made the button front a faux fastening. I used some small self cover buttons that I had left over from a wedding dress I made a couple of years ago.

I absolutely LOVE broderie anglaise fabric and I almost made something for me rather than my daughter - but I have lots of clothes and she doesn’t have too many of this type of dress - Plus we both wear the same size so I can pinch this if I want to!!!!.

This fabric is very very fine. The base cotton is a lawn weight and it is quite narrow. I only just squeezed this out of 3m. Due to the fine nature of the fabric I used a fine microtex needle - however I broke 2 needles going through the embroidered sections - so I’d advise you go for a slightly thicker needle. Also my overlocker hated this fabric - the varying thickness of the fabric played havoc with it and I wish I’d just used my pinking shears on the raw edges. After I’d rethreaded it several times!!!!!!!

I lined the bodice, midriff and skirt with a plain white cotton as it was quite sheer. In retrospect I should have chosen something a bit lighter - a poplin weight would work perfectly. The sleeves were left unlined. The pattern calls for a facing rather than a lining, so I had to think through the construction order quite carefully in order to achieve a neat finish on the inside. The sleeves are finished with an elastic casing which helps keep them in place and the hem is about 5cm deep.

I used the Kenneth King method for installing an invisible zipper.  It takes a little longer, but the results are great every time and it helped that the invisible zipper foot for the Pfaff machine I have is the best one I have ever used.

My daughter Loves this dress and has been swishing around in it for the last few days since I finished it. She plans to wear it with a corset style belt - Very cottagecore!!!!

 

Originally posted on Minerva

Boden inspired culottes

 

I do quite like Boden clothes and style, but rarely buy from them. They are just out of my price range and as someone who enjoys making her own clothes, I'd rather construct something I know will fit perfectly. These culottes were inspired by this Boden Skirt.

I prefer trousers to skirts as a rule - especially in the summer (I've lived in shorts this year - cut off jeans ones mostly). Anyway I decided to make the Culottes instead. I recieved this fabric from Minerva in exchange for my honest review which you can read in full here.

Once finished, I wasn't sure I was going to like them. I'n not really convinced about the pleats and pockets on these, but they have been a regular in my work wardrobe over September. Sadly packed away now as the fabric is super light and not suitable for the cooler weather. I have had lots of compliments when wearing them, and they do sum up my pesonality. I think they will definitely make an appearance when we get around to next spring and summer.

How to make a denim skirt - Burdastyle #110 02/2014

I've been giving my Pfaff Select 3.2 a workout. I wanted to see how it performed on different fabrics. I made some underwear and it performed beautifully. The IDT really helped with feeding the fine fabric through the machine and the stitches were fab. I wanted to see how well it performed on something much thicker and decided to try out this denim skirt from Burdastyle 02/2014. This would give me opportunity to try a buttonhole in top stitching thread and sew through several layers of denim. I set up two machines, my new Pfaff for the construction seams and my Bernina for the topstitching - It's much easier not to have to keep changing threads when sewing up denim. The buttonhole and button loops were sewn on the Pfaff.

The Pfaff created nice even top stitching and managed the thick fabric very well, what it didn't like was sewing over multiple layers of top stitching. It would happily do forward and reverse in the same area - but a third time with topstitching - No. I think it was the density of the thread, not the thickness of the fabric. It also coped very well with the buttonhole. I'd never been able to do a buttonhole with topstitching thread on the Janome and it coped very well with it. As always, the test version worked better than the actual buttonhole, but it's still pretty good - especially for my first one on this machine. So yes, my new machine can cope with what I'm going to throw at it.

Now then - on to the skirt. This is pattern 110 from Burdastyle Magazine 02/2014. There are actually 3 versions of this skirt in different lengths. I went with the 55cm length, but in future will go for the Longer 60cm length as it suits me better. The shortest length is the one that is labelled as the denim skirt in this issue, but as ususal with Burdastyle Magazines, there are multiple views in different fabrics to create different looks. I cut a straight size 38, but ended up taking it in a bit on the waist. I used this denim from Minerva Crafts. I had it left over from making my Ginger Jeans last year. It has a bit of stretch to it. If I was using a non stretch fabric I might have graded out to a 40 at the hip. I haven't got photos for every step, but I hope it's clear enough to follow.

Once you have cut out all the pieces the first thing to do is prepare the pockets. I started with the back pockets. (If you want to add a fancy design on your pockets, do this before going any further. I just used a ruler to draw some lines and top stitched them). Stabilise the top edge with a strip of interfacing - this will prevent the top of the pocket stretching out over time. Fold over the top edge by 0.5cm and press, fold again by 1cm and press again. this will enclose the raw edge - No need to serge/ overlock it. Turn to the right side and sew two rows of top stitching. One should be over the double folded fabric to secure it, sew a second line a few mm away from the first. I use the edge of my presser foot as a guide for where to sew this second line, but use whatever guide works for you.

Once you have top stitched the top edge of the pocket, fold the sides and bottom seam allowances to the wrong side and give it a good press then set these aside for later. I forgot to take a photo of this, but you can see how they should look once finished here.

Next up are the front yoke pockets. I sewed the pocket bags out of some remnants of cotton fabric to reduce bulk. You could use denim here if you wish, but this might be a lot for a regular machine to get through. Take the tiny coin pocket and press and top stitch the top seam allowances as you did with the back pockets. Then turn and press the allowances on the straight side. Pin the coin pocket to the denim pocket overlay and using your top stitch thread sew the pocket onto the overlay. I sew as close as I can to the edge and then about 5mm away - back stitching at the top to make the pocket secure. Then overlock/ serge (or finish by your prefered method) the bottom edge of the overlay. repeat this step for the other pocket.

Place the overlay onto the pocket/ yoke lining up the side and top edges. Stitch in place along the bottom of the denim overlay. I also find it useful to baste the top and sides, to prevent it moving during construction.

Finish the bottom edge of the pocket with an onverlocker, do the same for the pocket facing pieces.

Now take the front pieces of the skirt and the pocket facing pieces, stitch them, right sides together, along the pocket opening edge. Trim the facing and clip the curve, making sure not to clip through the stitches. Turn and press the seam towards the facing. Understitch (close to the edge, on the pocket facing piece and through all seam layers.

I also added two rows of top stitching to the edge of the pocket.

Lay the skirt front pieces ontop of the pocket/ yoke pieces and match the notches. Sew the inside of the pocket pieces together along the bottom edge of the pocket facing piece. Then baste the sides and top of the pocket bags in place. From the right side your skirt pieces should now look complete.

Next up is the centre front seam and the fly front. I recommend interfacing the fly extensions on your pattern piece - it helps prevent the zip from becoming wobbly. Pin the centre front together. use a long stitch to sew the upper part of the seam until you get to the notch. At the notch, back stitch and shorten the stitch to a regular length stitch. Press the seams open. I always use the Closet Core Patterns construction method for installing a zip fly, particularly the one for Ginger Jeans. I strongly recommend that you use this method, which you can find here.

 

Once the front is assembled, it's time to work on the back. First sew the back yoke to the top of the skirt piece, right sides together. Then finish you seam allowances together and press up towards the yoke. Secure the seam allowances with two rows of top stitching. Repeat for the other side.

Sew the centre back seam, right sides together and matching the yoke pieces. Finish the seam allowances and press to one side. from the right side sew two rows to top stitching to secure the seam allowances.

Before I go any further I baste the back pockets in place, you could just pin them, but I find that they shift while sewing. Just use a long stitch length and sew the pockets down.

Keeping the long stitch length baste the front and back pieces together along the side seams. This allows you to check the fit before commiting to top stitching etc. Try on the skirt and make any adjustments - I ended up taking a bit in from the hip to the waist at each side seam (you could also do this with the back seam if you wish - particularly useful if you have a swayback).

Once you are happy with the fit, stitch the seams securely, overlock the edges and press towards the back. 

I top stitched from the top of the side seam to just below the pocket opening to reinforce this area - just one row of stitching.

Stitch around the back pockets with top stitching, make sure you back stitch at the beginning and end to secure the pockets.

Now it's time to work on the waistband. I prefer a curved waistband, but as this skirt sits at the natural waist it's ok for it to be straight. The pattern calls for a 1inch/ 2.5cm waistband. I think it would be better if it were a little wider. First interface the waistband. This will help stop it stretching out. If you have a thick denim, you might not need this.

Fold the waistband in half lengthways and press. On one long edge turn the seam allowances to the wrong side and press. On the other long edge sew a row of stitching along the seam line - this helps line up the edges and get an even finish. 

Stitch the unfolded edge of the waistband to the top of the skirt, right sides together, press the seam allowances up. 

Fold the waistband back on itself, so that it is right sides together and the seam allowance is folded to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin the ends of the waistband and sew straight down. Once you have done this, trim the edge and turn the waistband the right way around and press.

Carefully pin the waistband so that the folded edge is level with the front edge and top stitch all the way around, making sure that you catch the inside of the waistband in the stitching.

We're almost done. Belt loops next. Overlock one long edge of the belt loop strip. press the strip into thirds lengthways. fold the unfinished edge in first and press, then fold the overlocked edge over the top and press, then sew two rows of top stitching, a few mm in from each edge. Cut 5 belt loops I made mine 7cm long. fold over  1 cm at each end and press. I also use a hammer to really flatten the loops - it helps with sewing them on.

 

Using the topstitching thread, sew the belt loops on, securing at the top and bottom with a couple of layers of top stitching or a bar tack. I place my loops at the centre back, just in front of the front edge of the pocket and then half way between them, near to the side seams. I find that it can be a bit tricky to sew at the side seams as there are many layers of fabric for the needle to get through.

Sew a button hole on the waistband above the fly front. If you are using a buttonhole function on your machine, test it out on some scrao fabric - make sure it's the same thickness as the waistband.  You can make a buttonhole by hand or alternatively use a popper. Install the button or popper following instructions.

 

Finally let's hem this thing. Turn a 1cm hem and press, turn again by 3cm and press again. Secure the hem with pins and top stitch from the right side. I use a marker in the bed of my sewing machine to ensure I sew the first line of stitching in the right place to go through all layers. I then sew a second row a few mm away from the first. A quick press and it's all done.