Burnsides - take two

A couple of years ago I made the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs for the first time. I love the styling and the cut and the fact that they are just super cool and very easy to wear.  and you can read my post about them here. However, I found I had a couple of issues with the ones I had made.

The fabric was a stretch twill from Minerva. Quite utilitarian and I liked it. The stretch made these super comfy and very forgiving on fit. I made the slightly fitted waist version with the zip[ and had graded from a 6 at the waist to an 8 at the hip. perfect in the stretch fabric, butI found I wasn't 100% happy with the fit across my hips, it seemed to pull when first worn, but then did relax after a bit. Second issue - leg length. I'd hemmed these too short and I really did want full length versions! Everytime I wore the I always felt a tad uncomfortable! and finally I have a long body and always felt that the bib was a little bit low for my liking.

Said twill Burnside Bibs were donated to my friend who is a little shorter that me - she loves them!!!! I have just made version 2 and in the interests of recording my alterations I'm writing about it here.

First up - Fabric choice. This is John Kaldor Salso Linen Cotton from Minerva and I ordered 3m. This is one of the recommended fabric choices for this pattern and it's defo summer weight!

I slashed and spread the bib on the lengthen and shorten line and added about 5cm to the height. As I had already cut the pattern to a size 6 on top and an 8 from the hips I kept the top and the waist as they were and when my pattern pieces were placed on the fabric I used taillors chalk to draw in the size 10 line from the hips to the hem on the outside leg seams only - grading to the 6 at the waist. I also added 3 inches to the length.

I was very economical with my pattern cutting and had very little wastage. There was enough left to cut out a linen t shirt, which will get a lot of wear over the summer months. I love it when I get a bonus make out of my fabric.

I think that this version of this pattern is a much better fit and more me. It gives the impression of height and creates a long line - useful when you have short legs!

I followed the instructions as the pattern does have a few interesting construction notes, which I wanted to make sure I got right!

I love the flowy feel, but I'll need a but warmer weather before I wear them, rather than the snow we've had this week!!!

 

I also fancy making a shorts version to wear when skating in the summer - need to raid my fabric stash!!!!!!

Boden inspired culottes

 

I do quite like Boden clothes and style, but rarely buy from them. They are just out of my price range and as someone who enjoys making her own clothes, I'd rather construct something I know will fit perfectly. These culottes were inspired by this Boden Skirt.

I prefer trousers to skirts as a rule - especially in the summer (I've lived in shorts this year - cut off jeans ones mostly). Anyway I decided to make the Culottes instead. I recieved this fabric from Minerva in exchange for my honest review which you can read in full here.

Once finished, I wasn't sure I was going to like them. I'n not really convinced about the pleats and pockets on these, but they have been a regular in my work wardrobe over September. Sadly packed away now as the fabric is super light and not suitable for the cooler weather. I have had lots of compliments when wearing them, and they do sum up my pesonality. I think they will definitely make an appearance when we get around to next spring and summer.

Red Floral Saraste Shirt Dress

This is my first version of the Saraste shirt dress from the Breaking the Pattern book by Named Clothing and it will not be the last. After a few recent makes with some tricksy fabrics, this was an absolute dream to sew.

I'm always a bit nervous when I first sew a pattern as I wanted an easy well fitting garment. This week has produced both an unwearable pair of trousers (which I won't go into here) and this stunning dress, which I love.

I compared my measurements to the size guide and finished measurements and based on these I cut a straight size 3. The pattern calls for just over 2m of 150cm wide fabric. Unfortunately I only had 2m of the fabric and it was narrower than 150cm wide too, which meant I had to shorten the skirt portion of the dress considerably and cut the inner yoke, inner collar stand and under collar in a contrasting fabric, which I also used to make bias binding for the armscye as there was not enough fabric for sleeves. I quite like the contrast effect if I'm honest.

I'm not normally a huge fan of floral fabric, but there was just something about the colour combination of this fabric that I really like. I didn't buy it myself and I'm not sure where it's from, but it has a really nice feel and a slight stretch. My sister-in-law gave it to me as a Christmas gift and I've been looking for a project to use it on since then. The contrast fabric was also a Christmas gift. My sister had bought me some yardage from Simply Fabrics in Brixton and had also spotted some remnants. This was one of those remnants - there was about 1/3m of this one.

Once I'd managed pattern Tetris to make all the pieces fit. I started on the construction. I followed this exactly as directed in the book. The bodice back and side front are constructed and stitched together at the side seams, then the gathered skirt is added before the centre front pieces are added and yoke are joined at the shoulder.

I can see why it's constructed in this way, but it doesn't leave many options for alterations. I really like the fit and won't be making any changes to this one, but I would normally have a closer fitting waist, so taking a bit off the side seams and back darts would help with this. If you think you might need to make similar alterations I would construct the back and front separately before joining at the shoulders and side seams.

The drafting is excellent on this and all the pieces matched perfectly. I left off the frill at the edge of the collar and used the grainline archer sew-a-long for the construction of the collar as it gives a great finish. The Saraste instructions are similar here, but the sew-a-long just gives a bit more detail.

I finished all inside seams with the overlocker. The hem was also overlocked and a narrow hem sewn in order to keep as much length as possible. The armscye is finished with contrast bias binding.

This dress is just completely my style. I will get a lot of wear out of it and I think there will be more of these.

Burdastyle #116 07/2012

This simple top is becoming one of my favourites.

In the Burdastyle magazine, it's a double layer top and made in a very drapey fabric. It has raglan shoulders and a front/ back - simples. I've made this 4 times now and I have a few tweaks to the pattern.

The neckline is gathered all the way around -I've always done this, but it can make the shoulders a bit bunched. So in my next version, I'll take some width out at the shoulders and leave the gathers at the front and back only.

I also taped the front and back shoulder pieces together to create a single piece, it means cutting out can be a bit quicker.
If I sew bias binding at the armhole I usually take about 1cm of the whole edge to account for lack of hem. I leave it if I am going to hem the edge.

I always finish the neck edge with a bias binding and this cotton is brilliant for making your own. It presses well and keeps the crease - very well behaved fabric but still soft and smooth. I bought it from The Sewing Box in Morpeth - they're moving premises on Monday so do pay them a visit if you're in the area.

I extend the bias binding to form ties. it makes for a quick and easy fastening and means I don't need to bother sewing rouleau loops or using plastic buttons, so this is a plastic-free make.

I also sew the back with a Centre back seam. Again this is laziness on my part and it just makes making a keyhole opening a bit quicker and easier.

All in all this make took about 1.5 hrs from cutting out to final try on and I did redo the armhole binding as I forgot to take the hem allowance off the first time. I've already worn this to work this week. I think it will be in heavy rotation.

Fabric 1m £6
Thread from the stash
Pattern from a Burdastyle magazine I already owned.

Who Said Pigs Cant Fly?

Don't you just love this fabric? I saw this just before Christmas when I was at the Sewing Machine Guy's shop in Ellington. I didn't buy any then, but my hubby bought 3m for me as a Christmas pressent. They are out of stock at the moment, but more is on order I believe.

I knew I wanted an everyday dress and a style that would show off the fabric and not interupt the design.

I used the basic bodice from Gertie's Ultimate dress book, but rotated the bust darts into the waist darts. I transfered the neckline from the princess seamed bodice and added the short sleeves - these I widened to allow a bit more movement as they were a bit tight on the toile I made. The Skirt is simple gathered rectangle but IT HAS POCKETS - !!!!!!!

The dress is unlined, and has a bodice facing. - seams are overlocked.  The seams are hand stitched.
The fabric is a good weight cotton and works well with tights and a cardy in cooler weather, but will be perfect for the summer too. I can see me getting a lot of wear out of this.

check out my pattern matching.

I made most of this dress just after Christmas. I had pressed and pinned the hems before my op, so sitting and hand stitching them when I came out of hospital was quite theraputic.

Do you have a favourite novelty print garment? I think I'm rapidly going off florals and prefer other prints.

Cute Culottes

I made culottes and the fit (kind of)!
I had seen the curved yoke culottes in the May issue of Burdastyle magazine, and thought they would be perfect for the summer.

 
I bought a cotton and linen mix fabric from 1st for Fabrics in Longbenton, which was a very well behaved fabric and comfy to wear.

The pattern is quite easy to sew up, as long as you know what you're doing with curved seams and only has 4 pattern pieces.

I made the size 38. I would normally go for a 40 at the hip and grade down to the waist, but these are wide and the 38 is fine. In fact it could do with just a smidge off the waist as I founf that the culottes teneded to slide down a little (as you can see in the picture) and a couple of cm off at the waist would prevent that from happening.

I've already made the adjustmwnt to the pattern and will be making at least one more pair this year.
I also think they'd be great shorter or made as full length wide trousers.

There is a side zip on the left, but I think a pocket on the right side would be useful, so will add one in next time.

The top is also Burdastyle cap sleeve crop top from 2015

Floral shirt dress.

Last year my hubby brought me some fabric back from China. It's a cotton with purple flowers on. It also had quite a deep border print. I decided to make a shirt dress and used the Maudella bodice as I knew it fit well. I added a dirndl skirt, originally keeping the border print.

Once it was made the border print looked a little odd, so I shortened it and got rid. I also had to be quite careful when cutting as the fabric had been stored on a bolt and the edges had discoloured and yellowed slightly. I think I've hidden the worst! I plan to wear this type of dress after I've had my hip op as it will be easier to get on than shorts or skirts and it's perfect for the warm weather we have in the UK at the moment.

Soundtrack - Vehicles and Animals by Athlete