Horse, Horse, Tiger, Tiger

 

Have you ever discovered a phrase in another language that you just love? This is one of those phrases - I learnt this when in China a few years ago doing some charity work. Some of the charity staff told me this phrase, 'mǎmǎhūhū'. It is translated as horse, horse, tiger, tiger and generally means a bit so-so - I'm feeling a bit horse, horse about this and also a bit tiger, tiger. It's far more decriptive than so-so.

Anyway this phrase sums up this make in more than one way. I love it and dislike it almost in equal measure. to the point where it will get worn and i'll enjoy it and it looks good, but there are a couple of issues that let the whole thing down.

Firstly let me just say how much I love the TIGER print viscose challis from Minerva. I was gifted the fabric in return for a review which you can find here.

I knew what I wanted to make with this, It's the Victoria Blouse from Fibre Mood. I'm a sucker for a high neck blouse and I love the styling. I was going to make this from an eyelet cotton that I had in my stash, but there wasn't enough of it. So when I saw this fabric I knew it was a perfect match.

 

The PDF come with layers so you can print just your size - so I looked at the measurement chart and cut a size 40. It's loose fitting, so I might have got away with the 38, but I have quite broad shoulders so I went with the 40 and it's fine. Do be aware that you need to add seam allowances to this pattern. The instructions have you use different seam allowance widths at different places - I just went with a straight 1cm all over.

 

The instructions are generally ok, but there a couple of parts that are not that clear and could be confusing for a beginner sewist. However, if you make tops regularly this is not a difficult make. I did decide to make a couple of alterations to the fastenings. The pattern calls for a hook and eye fastening at the neck and press studs at the wrist. I decided to use small round buttons and rouleux loops to fasten these instead.

As the fabric is a quite light I decided to double the yoke. Mainly to keep the insides neat, but also to provide a bit more stability. I found that this fabric was quite easy to work with and wasn't too shifty to cut and sew.

The blouse sewed up really well and all the pattern makings matched beautifully. I really loved the finish of the blouse and the styling. However there were a couple of things that I feel let the pattern design down. Fiirstly is a small issue of the back slit opening. It's just too long. I will be making this much shorter next time.

 

The main issue was the sleeves. The blouse is loose fitting and really would benefit from shirt style sleeves, with a flatter sleeve head. The one drafted has quite a steep sleeve head and this works really well for a fitted bodice, but isn't so comfy for a loose blouse. It makes the top feel tight across the back and top of the arm which it actually isn't. I think I can live with the blouse as it is, but I've altered them for my next version.

Here is what I did:

Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the grainline at the bottom of the sleeve head and a vertical line from the top of the sleeve head to hem, parallel to the grainline. 

Cut from the hem to the top of the sleeve head, leaving a hinge of paper. Cut along the horizontal line and leave a hinge at the sides. I also cut a couple more lines from the centre point to the sleeve head curve. 

 

Then swing the sleeve open to widen and flatten the sleeve head. I then closed the hem back up. 

 

I stuck the pattern onto another pieces of paper and then retraced the new sleeve pattern. 

 

The sleeve now has a flatter sleeve head and wider bicep, which should allow more movement on this loose fitting blouse.

How to make a denim skirt - Burdastyle #110 02/2014

I've been giving my Pfaff Select 3.2 a workout. I wanted to see how it performed on different fabrics. I made some underwear and it performed beautifully. The IDT really helped with feeding the fine fabric through the machine and the stitches were fab. I wanted to see how well it performed on something much thicker and decided to try out this denim skirt from Burdastyle 02/2014. This would give me opportunity to try a buttonhole in top stitching thread and sew through several layers of denim. I set up two machines, my new Pfaff for the construction seams and my Bernina for the topstitching - It's much easier not to have to keep changing threads when sewing up denim. The buttonhole and button loops were sewn on the Pfaff.

The Pfaff created nice even top stitching and managed the thick fabric very well, what it didn't like was sewing over multiple layers of top stitching. It would happily do forward and reverse in the same area - but a third time with topstitching - No. I think it was the density of the thread, not the thickness of the fabric. It also coped very well with the buttonhole. I'd never been able to do a buttonhole with topstitching thread on the Janome and it coped very well with it. As always, the test version worked better than the actual buttonhole, but it's still pretty good - especially for my first one on this machine. So yes, my new machine can cope with what I'm going to throw at it.

Now then - on to the skirt. This is pattern 110 from Burdastyle Magazine 02/2014. There are actually 3 versions of this skirt in different lengths. I went with the 55cm length, but in future will go for the Longer 60cm length as it suits me better. The shortest length is the one that is labelled as the denim skirt in this issue, but as ususal with Burdastyle Magazines, there are multiple views in different fabrics to create different looks. I cut a straight size 38, but ended up taking it in a bit on the waist. I used this denim from Minerva Crafts. I had it left over from making my Ginger Jeans last year. It has a bit of stretch to it. If I was using a non stretch fabric I might have graded out to a 40 at the hip. I haven't got photos for every step, but I hope it's clear enough to follow.

Once you have cut out all the pieces the first thing to do is prepare the pockets. I started with the back pockets. (If you want to add a fancy design on your pockets, do this before going any further. I just used a ruler to draw some lines and top stitched them). Stabilise the top edge with a strip of interfacing - this will prevent the top of the pocket stretching out over time. Fold over the top edge by 0.5cm and press, fold again by 1cm and press again. this will enclose the raw edge - No need to serge/ overlock it. Turn to the right side and sew two rows of top stitching. One should be over the double folded fabric to secure it, sew a second line a few mm away from the first. I use the edge of my presser foot as a guide for where to sew this second line, but use whatever guide works for you.

Once you have top stitched the top edge of the pocket, fold the sides and bottom seam allowances to the wrong side and give it a good press then set these aside for later. I forgot to take a photo of this, but you can see how they should look once finished here.

Next up are the front yoke pockets. I sewed the pocket bags out of some remnants of cotton fabric to reduce bulk. You could use denim here if you wish, but this might be a lot for a regular machine to get through. Take the tiny coin pocket and press and top stitch the top seam allowances as you did with the back pockets. Then turn and press the allowances on the straight side. Pin the coin pocket to the denim pocket overlay and using your top stitch thread sew the pocket onto the overlay. I sew as close as I can to the edge and then about 5mm away - back stitching at the top to make the pocket secure. Then overlock/ serge (or finish by your prefered method) the bottom edge of the overlay. repeat this step for the other pocket.

Place the overlay onto the pocket/ yoke lining up the side and top edges. Stitch in place along the bottom of the denim overlay. I also find it useful to baste the top and sides, to prevent it moving during construction.

Finish the bottom edge of the pocket with an onverlocker, do the same for the pocket facing pieces.

Now take the front pieces of the skirt and the pocket facing pieces, stitch them, right sides together, along the pocket opening edge. Trim the facing and clip the curve, making sure not to clip through the stitches. Turn and press the seam towards the facing. Understitch (close to the edge, on the pocket facing piece and through all seam layers.

I also added two rows of top stitching to the edge of the pocket.

Lay the skirt front pieces ontop of the pocket/ yoke pieces and match the notches. Sew the inside of the pocket pieces together along the bottom edge of the pocket facing piece. Then baste the sides and top of the pocket bags in place. From the right side your skirt pieces should now look complete.

Next up is the centre front seam and the fly front. I recommend interfacing the fly extensions on your pattern piece - it helps prevent the zip from becoming wobbly. Pin the centre front together. use a long stitch to sew the upper part of the seam until you get to the notch. At the notch, back stitch and shorten the stitch to a regular length stitch. Press the seams open. I always use the Closet Core Patterns construction method for installing a zip fly, particularly the one for Ginger Jeans. I strongly recommend that you use this method, which you can find here.

 

Once the front is assembled, it's time to work on the back. First sew the back yoke to the top of the skirt piece, right sides together. Then finish you seam allowances together and press up towards the yoke. Secure the seam allowances with two rows of top stitching. Repeat for the other side.

Sew the centre back seam, right sides together and matching the yoke pieces. Finish the seam allowances and press to one side. from the right side sew two rows to top stitching to secure the seam allowances.

Before I go any further I baste the back pockets in place, you could just pin them, but I find that they shift while sewing. Just use a long stitch length and sew the pockets down.

Keeping the long stitch length baste the front and back pieces together along the side seams. This allows you to check the fit before commiting to top stitching etc. Try on the skirt and make any adjustments - I ended up taking a bit in from the hip to the waist at each side seam (you could also do this with the back seam if you wish - particularly useful if you have a swayback).

Once you are happy with the fit, stitch the seams securely, overlock the edges and press towards the back. 

I top stitched from the top of the side seam to just below the pocket opening to reinforce this area - just one row of stitching.

Stitch around the back pockets with top stitching, make sure you back stitch at the beginning and end to secure the pockets.

Now it's time to work on the waistband. I prefer a curved waistband, but as this skirt sits at the natural waist it's ok for it to be straight. The pattern calls for a 1inch/ 2.5cm waistband. I think it would be better if it were a little wider. First interface the waistband. This will help stop it stretching out. If you have a thick denim, you might not need this.

Fold the waistband in half lengthways and press. On one long edge turn the seam allowances to the wrong side and press. On the other long edge sew a row of stitching along the seam line - this helps line up the edges and get an even finish. 

Stitch the unfolded edge of the waistband to the top of the skirt, right sides together, press the seam allowances up. 

Fold the waistband back on itself, so that it is right sides together and the seam allowance is folded to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin the ends of the waistband and sew straight down. Once you have done this, trim the edge and turn the waistband the right way around and press.

Carefully pin the waistband so that the folded edge is level with the front edge and top stitch all the way around, making sure that you catch the inside of the waistband in the stitching.

We're almost done. Belt loops next. Overlock one long edge of the belt loop strip. press the strip into thirds lengthways. fold the unfinished edge in first and press, then fold the overlocked edge over the top and press, then sew two rows of top stitching, a few mm in from each edge. Cut 5 belt loops I made mine 7cm long. fold over  1 cm at each end and press. I also use a hammer to really flatten the loops - it helps with sewing them on.

 

Using the topstitching thread, sew the belt loops on, securing at the top and bottom with a couple of layers of top stitching or a bar tack. I place my loops at the centre back, just in front of the front edge of the pocket and then half way between them, near to the side seams. I find that it can be a bit tricky to sew at the side seams as there are many layers of fabric for the needle to get through.

Sew a button hole on the waistband above the fly front. If you are using a buttonhole function on your machine, test it out on some scrao fabric - make sure it's the same thickness as the waistband.  You can make a buttonhole by hand or alternatively use a popper. Install the button or popper following instructions.

 

Finally let's hem this thing. Turn a 1cm hem and press, turn again by 3cm and press again. Secure the hem with pins and top stitch from the right side. I use a marker in the bed of my sewing machine to ensure I sew the first line of stitching in the right place to go through all layers. I then sew a second row a few mm away from the first. A quick press and it's all done.

Boilersuit Bandwagon

Here I am chanelling my past in a vintage jumpsuit.

So, I sold out. I made what I thought I wouldn't. Jumpsuit, flightsuit, boilersuit, coverall - whatever you call it, it's certainly a trend right now. I'm not one for following trends, but I do love an item of clothing I can throw on and just wear, without much thought. The nearest I have ever got to making a jumpsuit is making the Burnside Bibs, which I managed to complete just after Christmas and I really like them. The photos were taken very hurriedly by my daughter as it's blowing an absolute hoolie out there today.

Back in the late 80's I worked for a hair salon franchise and the uniform for the juniors was a white boiler suit with short sleeves and red ties. Other memebers of staff wore either black or grey suits in the same style. It's safe to say it put me off! So i'm a little bit surprised at myself with this make.

There are so many patterns out there, every pattern company has one and the latest offerings are from the Alexa Jumpsuit from TATB and the Blanca flightsuit from Closet Case Patterns. However I had a secret weapon. A free to me pattern and free to me fabric.

As part of a stash of patterns I recieved from a lady on freecycle I scored this 1984 Brooke Shields inspired pattern. I was 13 then, and probably wouldn't have worn this at the time. It's McCalls 8926 and it also comes in a childs version 8927 so you can be all matchy matchy if you wish. The pattern was size 14/16 and aready cut to the size 14.

Now I'm a bit wary of excessive ease in 80's patterns and in the big 4 in general, so before cutting into the fabric I did a lot of measuring to check the size. The previous owner had already folded out a couple of centimetres from the width of the front and back body pieces. I measured carefully and decided that the same adjustment would work for me. I have a long torso and after more measuring of pattern pieces and myself. I knew that I needed to lengthen the body and added an inch to the body, just above the waist. This turned out to be the perfect amount of length to add. The rest of the pattern I left as it was.

I hadn't realised at first, but the fronts overlap on an angle, this seemed a little odd, but I went with it.

Some of the construction seemed rather unusual and left me scratching my head on occassion, as there are far better and easier ways to construct some parts of the design, for example using the burrito method for sewing the yoke.

The only part of the instructions that was dreadful, was the collar construction. To start with, sewing anything with a tight curve and a 1.5cm seam allowance is a nightmare. I hadn't realised how I have become used to much smaller seam allowances.

I followed the instructions and was left with an unsatisfactory finish in the inside of the neck edge on the front bodice piece where raw edges were visible. I ended up carefully unpicking and reconstructing it in a slightly different way to fully enclose all the raw edges. As I'd already trimmed these, this was not easy and not perfect. In the process I'd also stretched out the top collar edge and it's ended up with a few puckers in it.

However the rest of the construction went without incident and the edges are all finished well. I really like the top stitching at the bottom of the front opening -really neat, in fact, collar and facing apart, it's actually a fairly easy sew. I made the short sleeve version and included patch pockets on the front.

I also top stitched the sleeve seam onto the bodice, which gives a lovely professional finish to the seams.

The fabric came from a fabric and pattern swap locally, sometime last year. I love the colour - it's perfect summer colour. It sewed beautifully and needed very few pins to keep it in place. I have sewed a self coloured belt to go with this, but need a couple of D rings to finish it off, so it's being worn with other belts at the moment. The belt loops are made in the same way you might make bias binding, but in the straight grain. I positioned them as directed, just above the pocket openeing, forgetting I'd lengthened the pieces and really needed to attach them a touch higher, but I can live with it.

I also raided my stash of buttons to find something suitable, but I didn't have anything that would match. however I had 3 self cover buttons of a good size and used those instead.

All in all this is a virtually free sew, as the fabric was gifted to me, as was the pattern, The thread and notions were from my stash.

So am I loving the boilersuit trend? Well that remains to be seen - lets just see how much wear this gets over the summer? I'm looking for ways to style this - so hit me with your ideas. I'm also interested to know if you are jumping on this trend.

Going Wobbly - how I'm getting my head back together (and a new top)

It's been quite a week. I don't know about you but I thought I'd got settled into a new routine in lockdown and a new way of working. I spent mornings working, from early until anout 12.30-1pm. Then I'd have lunch; walk the dog; do a bit of housework/ garden stuff; do another hour or two working and finish by tea time. It was all working fine up until Monday.

I'd had a productive weekend. I painted on the bank holiday - out in the garden as it was so nice. - working on a big 120cm square canvas for my painting based on Newbiggin bay. Saturday I pulled out weeds and took it all to the tip, Sunday was church and a long walk with the dog and Boris' announcement!

I didn't sleep well and woke in a poor frame of mind for Monday. I worked - starting at 7.30am and I don't think I really rested from it until tea time. I didn't become a teacher to sit all day at a computer, and by the end of the day my back hurt and I was still left not really know what was going to happen with schools. Many questions and very few answers.

Tuesday was much the same. Worked to the point where my back hurt and the lack of sleep made me completely ineffective. Still no news on how schools would return. I decided that on wednesday I would work on exemplar material for my students and did a bit of painting and designing for some of my modules.

As the week has gone on, it's been harder to keep my chin up. I have felt demoralised by all the teacher bashing going off in the press; the arguments and lack of clear plan. It's become apparent that children and teachers are just subjects in the goverment's latest Covid19 experiment - guinea pigs if you will. I want to teach - I am a professional and do a good job. The children make me laugh, and I love seeing them grow as individuals. I want them to be safe and all our staff to be safe. I just don't think the plans in place are safe. I could feel a level of anxiety creeping in. I even had my work stress dream - you'll laugh at this one - I dream all the kids have left unwashed pallettes, paintbrushes etc in the classroom sink and I have to clean it up. It's stupid I know, but it's what I dream when I'm stressed about work.

I decided to stop reading, listening to or watching the news as it was seriously affecting my mental health and late in the week I started a couple of sewing projects to boost my mental health.

I had a piece of spotty viscose left over from my Solina dress. It was from Minerva. I decided to make my ever faithful top. I have made so many of these I have lost count - It's Burdastyle #116 07/2012.

I've made a few changes to the pattern over the years. I joined the shoulder pieces together to make one piece for each side. It's supposed to be a double layered top, instead I make this a single layer and bind the neck and armholes with bias binding.

Add caption

To make it super easy I lust leave long bias strip ties at the opening and tie in a bow.

I also made a button necklace. I had a supply of craft buttons in bright colours, so I strung them together interspersed with smaller buttons, the bright colours make me happy.

I've also started on a vintage pattern. It's a Brooke Shields jumpsuit pattern from 1984 - watch this space for more on that one.