How to make a denim skirt - Burdastyle #110 02/2014

I've been giving my Pfaff Select 3.2 a workout. I wanted to see how it performed on different fabrics. I made some underwear and it performed beautifully. The IDT really helped with feeding the fine fabric through the machine and the stitches were fab. I wanted to see how well it performed on something much thicker and decided to try out this denim skirt from Burdastyle 02/2014. This would give me opportunity to try a buttonhole in top stitching thread and sew through several layers of denim. I set up two machines, my new Pfaff for the construction seams and my Bernina for the topstitching - It's much easier not to have to keep changing threads when sewing up denim. The buttonhole and button loops were sewn on the Pfaff.

The Pfaff created nice even top stitching and managed the thick fabric very well, what it didn't like was sewing over multiple layers of top stitching. It would happily do forward and reverse in the same area - but a third time with topstitching - No. I think it was the density of the thread, not the thickness of the fabric. It also coped very well with the buttonhole. I'd never been able to do a buttonhole with topstitching thread on the Janome and it coped very well with it. As always, the test version worked better than the actual buttonhole, but it's still pretty good - especially for my first one on this machine. So yes, my new machine can cope with what I'm going to throw at it.

Now then - on to the skirt. This is pattern 110 from Burdastyle Magazine 02/2014. There are actually 3 versions of this skirt in different lengths. I went with the 55cm length, but in future will go for the Longer 60cm length as it suits me better. The shortest length is the one that is labelled as the denim skirt in this issue, but as ususal with Burdastyle Magazines, there are multiple views in different fabrics to create different looks. I cut a straight size 38, but ended up taking it in a bit on the waist. I used this denim from Minerva Crafts. I had it left over from making my Ginger Jeans last year. It has a bit of stretch to it. If I was using a non stretch fabric I might have graded out to a 40 at the hip. I haven't got photos for every step, but I hope it's clear enough to follow.

Once you have cut out all the pieces the first thing to do is prepare the pockets. I started with the back pockets. (If you want to add a fancy design on your pockets, do this before going any further. I just used a ruler to draw some lines and top stitched them). Stabilise the top edge with a strip of interfacing - this will prevent the top of the pocket stretching out over time. Fold over the top edge by 0.5cm and press, fold again by 1cm and press again. this will enclose the raw edge - No need to serge/ overlock it. Turn to the right side and sew two rows of top stitching. One should be over the double folded fabric to secure it, sew a second line a few mm away from the first. I use the edge of my presser foot as a guide for where to sew this second line, but use whatever guide works for you.

Once you have top stitched the top edge of the pocket, fold the sides and bottom seam allowances to the wrong side and give it a good press then set these aside for later. I forgot to take a photo of this, but you can see how they should look once finished here.

Next up are the front yoke pockets. I sewed the pocket bags out of some remnants of cotton fabric to reduce bulk. You could use denim here if you wish, but this might be a lot for a regular machine to get through. Take the tiny coin pocket and press and top stitch the top seam allowances as you did with the back pockets. Then turn and press the allowances on the straight side. Pin the coin pocket to the denim pocket overlay and using your top stitch thread sew the pocket onto the overlay. I sew as close as I can to the edge and then about 5mm away - back stitching at the top to make the pocket secure. Then overlock/ serge (or finish by your prefered method) the bottom edge of the overlay. repeat this step for the other pocket.

Place the overlay onto the pocket/ yoke lining up the side and top edges. Stitch in place along the bottom of the denim overlay. I also find it useful to baste the top and sides, to prevent it moving during construction.

Finish the bottom edge of the pocket with an onverlocker, do the same for the pocket facing pieces.

Now take the front pieces of the skirt and the pocket facing pieces, stitch them, right sides together, along the pocket opening edge. Trim the facing and clip the curve, making sure not to clip through the stitches. Turn and press the seam towards the facing. Understitch (close to the edge, on the pocket facing piece and through all seam layers.

I also added two rows of top stitching to the edge of the pocket.

Lay the skirt front pieces ontop of the pocket/ yoke pieces and match the notches. Sew the inside of the pocket pieces together along the bottom edge of the pocket facing piece. Then baste the sides and top of the pocket bags in place. From the right side your skirt pieces should now look complete.

Next up is the centre front seam and the fly front. I recommend interfacing the fly extensions on your pattern piece - it helps prevent the zip from becoming wobbly. Pin the centre front together. use a long stitch to sew the upper part of the seam until you get to the notch. At the notch, back stitch and shorten the stitch to a regular length stitch. Press the seams open. I always use the Closet Core Patterns construction method for installing a zip fly, particularly the one for Ginger Jeans. I strongly recommend that you use this method, which you can find here.

 

Once the front is assembled, it's time to work on the back. First sew the back yoke to the top of the skirt piece, right sides together. Then finish you seam allowances together and press up towards the yoke. Secure the seam allowances with two rows of top stitching. Repeat for the other side.

Sew the centre back seam, right sides together and matching the yoke pieces. Finish the seam allowances and press to one side. from the right side sew two rows to top stitching to secure the seam allowances.

Before I go any further I baste the back pockets in place, you could just pin them, but I find that they shift while sewing. Just use a long stitch length and sew the pockets down.

Keeping the long stitch length baste the front and back pieces together along the side seams. This allows you to check the fit before commiting to top stitching etc. Try on the skirt and make any adjustments - I ended up taking a bit in from the hip to the waist at each side seam (you could also do this with the back seam if you wish - particularly useful if you have a swayback).

Once you are happy with the fit, stitch the seams securely, overlock the edges and press towards the back. 

I top stitched from the top of the side seam to just below the pocket opening to reinforce this area - just one row of stitching.

Stitch around the back pockets with top stitching, make sure you back stitch at the beginning and end to secure the pockets.

Now it's time to work on the waistband. I prefer a curved waistband, but as this skirt sits at the natural waist it's ok for it to be straight. The pattern calls for a 1inch/ 2.5cm waistband. I think it would be better if it were a little wider. First interface the waistband. This will help stop it stretching out. If you have a thick denim, you might not need this.

Fold the waistband in half lengthways and press. On one long edge turn the seam allowances to the wrong side and press. On the other long edge sew a row of stitching along the seam line - this helps line up the edges and get an even finish. 

Stitch the unfolded edge of the waistband to the top of the skirt, right sides together, press the seam allowances up. 

Fold the waistband back on itself, so that it is right sides together and the seam allowance is folded to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin the ends of the waistband and sew straight down. Once you have done this, trim the edge and turn the waistband the right way around and press.

Carefully pin the waistband so that the folded edge is level with the front edge and top stitch all the way around, making sure that you catch the inside of the waistband in the stitching.

We're almost done. Belt loops next. Overlock one long edge of the belt loop strip. press the strip into thirds lengthways. fold the unfinished edge in first and press, then fold the overlocked edge over the top and press, then sew two rows of top stitching, a few mm in from each edge. Cut 5 belt loops I made mine 7cm long. fold over  1 cm at each end and press. I also use a hammer to really flatten the loops - it helps with sewing them on.

 

Using the topstitching thread, sew the belt loops on, securing at the top and bottom with a couple of layers of top stitching or a bar tack. I place my loops at the centre back, just in front of the front edge of the pocket and then half way between them, near to the side seams. I find that it can be a bit tricky to sew at the side seams as there are many layers of fabric for the needle to get through.

Sew a button hole on the waistband above the fly front. If you are using a buttonhole function on your machine, test it out on some scrao fabric - make sure it's the same thickness as the waistband.  You can make a buttonhole by hand or alternatively use a popper. Install the button or popper following instructions.

 

Finally let's hem this thing. Turn a 1cm hem and press, turn again by 3cm and press again. Secure the hem with pins and top stitch from the right side. I use a marker in the bed of my sewing machine to ensure I sew the first line of stitching in the right place to go through all layers. I then sew a second row a few mm away from the first. A quick press and it's all done.

Walking, Sewing, Painting

I often have a lot of things on the go, it's quite normal and it's how I work. The last couple of weeks have been strange as I haven't really finished much, but there is a lot in the pipeline. The end of term came and went in a strange socially distanced way and the school holidays began. I find it quite a stange time anyway and often spend the first week or so redrafting my schemes of work ready for September. However I know there will be some updates H&S advice coming out in August and I don't want to have to do the planning twice, so I'm leaving it until I know what the recommendations are for teaching Art & Design in our new normal. I'll probably spend a big chunk of the last week of the holiday in school sorting out my classroom and getting prepared.

I have started a few projects and have been busy printing and taping PDF patterns ready to cut and sew. I have prepped fabric for my next Minerva makes and the first item is almost complete - just a fastening to go.

On my sewing table right now...

Almost finished are Burdastyle Culottes 03/2015 #126. They have quite a nice overlapped pleat at the front more details to come soon once I've finished the fastening.

Also almost finished and just needing a button and buttonhole are these basic shorts. I downloaded this pattern from a spanish website a few months ago, but it seems to have disappeared from the the internet. The drafting is great but it only has a spec sheet rather than full instructions, but that's ok with me - it's a basic design - fits well too.

I also have this stunning cotton Sateen from Minerva to make up. It's washed and ready to go and I think I have my patterns identified - but I keep changing my mind!!!

Recent makes have been lingerie related and I'm on a bit of a roll. I have now made 3 Watson bras and I'm starting to plan pattern hacks!!! I made this fun bra and knickers from this Rico jersey, which was left over from a t shirt I made a while back. I made the knickers in a size small and used bands rather than elastic -just to try it out - I quite like it.

I also made another pair of the knickers to match the simplicity 8436 bra I made a few weeks ago. I increased the rise by a couple of cm as they sit a little too low without. This version uses some beige lingerie lace with some stretch. I cut both the bands and elastic at 85% of the openings and it seems to be ok.

I also have some navy stretch lace and nude stretch mesh to make a Noelle Bralette and Panties set, but I need to get some elastics and findings.

Apart from sewing I have been painting. Creating a painting is usually quite a long process and i need to sit and live with them before I decided if they are finished. Often I'll work on serveral pieces at once, working on one, while another one dries. I've currently got 4 on the go and they are all inspired by walks along or close to the coast where I live. I try to get out for at least a 4 mile walk each day and prefer something a bit longer. I have found that this activity has been incredibly important to help keep good mental health during the lockdown.

Here are some of the in progress shots of my paintings - Non are quite finished yet.

I've even managed to repaint the garden furniture - it was looking rather tired and now its bright blue!

On Sunday we went to visit family. It was great to see people in the flesh instead of over a screen. We did a long day and got home very late but at least we were able to sleep in our own bed!

Wednesday was my birthday and John, Bethan and I (and the dog) drove up to Seahouses and then walked over the fields, along the Northumberland Coastal Path to Bamburgh. It was a pleasant walk, we had lunch at a local pub before walking back to Seahouses along the beach.

It's almost an hour's drive and it was nearly 4 by the time we arrived home. I had been in just a few minutes when my lovely friend Allison dropped by with my birthday gift of a large piece of waxed cotton. Now I just need to decide what to make with it.

I've had a new fitbit and the Vivienne Westwood designed war child T shirt from the family. I've also had a bit of money towards a new sewing machine. I'm looking to upgrade and thinking about a couple of different machines at the moment. The trouble is that my local store are not doing demonstrations due to Covid and I really want to try before I buy - so I might have to wait a while. I primarily use my machine for garment sewing including outerwear and lingerie, so it needs to be able to handle all kings of fabrics. I do a bit of quilting every now and again.

I'm considering the Bernette 38. It has all the functions I need in a machine, but I need something that can handle thick fabrics - for things like jeans making. I don't know what it's capability is for this type of sewing.

The other machine(s) I'm considering are the Juki HZL G210/220 They have the industrial box feed system and are marketed as begin able to handle lots of fabric - they also have lots of decorative stitches - I'm not sure I'd use them all, but am drawn to the power of these machines.

If you have either the Bernette 38 or the Juki HZL G210/220, do let me know what you think of them. It might help me make a decision.

There we go - You're all caught up with what I've been up to. so how are your days panning out?

Coach Style Jacket - DIY (Free Pattern)

Free Pattern

When my son got back from Uni, he asked if I could make him a coach jacket. I had no idea what a coach jacket was, but after doing a bit of research discovered that it was one of the simplest of jacket styles out there. As this was a custom item, I matched the design to what he wanted and then I set to work to create the pattern.

I checked my stash and didn't have anything suitable so out came the drafting book and I set to work. As it's such a simple design it didn't take long to draft. It's basically an un darted overgarment block, with a simple collar. The front has diagonal welt pockets and is fastened with poppers.

I used Aldrich - Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. It's the first time I've made a garment using a block drafted from this book, although I've had it for a while. The drafting for menswear includes a 1cm seam allowance on some seams, but not all, which I found a little strange. I was pleasantly suprised that the first (and only) muslin I made was a pretty good fit. I made minor changes to the length to accomodate my son's personal taste and the collar needed a bit of work to make it comfortable.

I have decided to make the PDF of this available as free pattern (draft). You can download the file here. (you can check out all my free patterns here.) However, there are no pattern markings or instructions, bar my own notes and the information contained in this post. I didn't draft pockets, but cut the pieces out when my son had decided where he wanted the pockets to be. This design would also work well with patch pockets or zippered pockets. You may use this for your own personal use, but must not sell or distribute the pattern in any way. It's single size and would match an XL size (chest 114cm). One day I may grade it, but that takes a lot of time, which I don't have right now. My instructions are brief - I forgot to take construction photos as I just wanted to complete it - and wasn't planning on making a real pattern or anything - so lots of finished photos here.

On to construction. The outer layer was made from Cotton Drill. I used just over 2m. The body lining is a lovely softly woven cotton, about 1m (each of these was about 150cm wide). The fabrics were purchased from Minerva. The sleeves were lined with a traditional lining fabric, something slippy, again I used about 1m - this was a remnant from my stash. The snaps are Prymm. Interfacing was from my stash.

The pattern has 1cm seams throughout, except for the hems on the sleeves and body, which are 4 cm.

I cut the body fronts (x2), back (x1 on the fold), sleeves (x2 on the fold), front facing (x2), back neck facing (x1 on the fold), Collar (x2 on the fold) from the main fabric. All pieces cut on grain.

I also cut 2 welt strips and 4 pockets bags for the pockets (no pattern pieces for this)

I cut interfacing for the front facings, collar and interfaced the area  for the pockets and the hem line.

I cut 2 sleeves from acetate lining - cut to hem line length

I cut the body front and back from the cotton lining. - when cutting the back I added a couple of cm at the fold to give an ease pleat in the back.  -also cut to hem line length.

First I made the welt pockets in the front pieces (Catherine Daze Has a brilliant tutorial here).

Next I joined the front facings to the front body lining pieces.

On the back lining piece I stitched a few cm down from the centre back at the top and bottom  - the distance I had added on to the pattern to form the pleat. Press the pleat in to the fabric. You can see how this looks in the photo below.

The back neck facing is then sewn to the top edge of the lining. I added a hanging loop, but you could omit this if needed.

The collar pieces were sewn together - right sides together along the outside edges, seams trimmed, turned and pressed. The neck edge of the collar was basted together. Top stitch the outside edge if you wish.

I sewed the body front and back pieces together at the shoulder and and pressed the seam open. I did the same in the lining. Then the sleeves were attached flat and pressed towards the body - on both the lining and main fabrics.

The side seams were then sewn, from the hem, up the sides and down the sleeve. I also pressed the hems up.

Next I pinned on the collar. I started at CB and pinned along the neckline towards the CF. There should be a small space at the CF of a couple of  cm once the jacket is complete.

I sandwiched the collar between the outer layer and lining (right sides together). You will find stay stitching the neckline and clipping tight curves (not through the stitching) will help achieve a smooth collar insertion.

Once the collar was pinned in, I continued to match up the front edges of the jacket and facing. Then stitched from one end to the other, making sure to pivot neatly at the top of the CF edge (I marked this with pen on my interfacing so it matches perfectly. Turn and press - top stitch if you wish.

Next up was bagging the lining. I won't cover that here as there are many many posts on how this one from Grainline studio is particularly good. I left a gap in the hem to turn the jacket through, it's easier than leaving a gap in the sleeve.

If you don't want to bag the lining. you can simply turn up the hem, fold over and press 1cm so that the raw edge is enclosed and hand stitch in place. Do the same with the sleeve hems.

Next up are the fastenings. My son opted for silver snap fasteners, but you could also use buttons. Mark even spacing between them - 5 or 6 should be about right, depending on your preference. You could use a zip, but this would require a little alteration to the front pieces and facings - you would need to remove the overlapping sections. the zip should then be inserted between the front and the facing to give a clean finish.

So here we have one completed, coach jacket. Its a relatively simple make and has lots of opportunities for pattern hacking. It's exactly what he asked for and it's my 4th coat/ jacket make of the year so far.