Puzzling Pattern

 

 

I've followed the Studio Faro Well Suited Blog for a while and love the pattern puzzles. It's a great way to get you thinking and create something a little different to most patterns that you see out there.

A few years ago I made the a dress inspired by the Vivienne Drape dress - it's been one of my favourite dresses to wear to work. It was easy to draft and to construct.

Anyway, last week I decided I wanted a bit of a challenge and decided to have a go at the layered shirt. Anita gives some instructions for turning a block into the design for the shirt. Rather than starting with a block I used the Saraste shirt from Breaking the pattern as it already had the collar drafted and had the yoke and back sections at a good starting point - It also fits me well.

I marked the seam allowances on the front pieces, so I could omit them for drafting and lined up the princess seams from the bust point to the shoulder, this created the flare needed at the hem. I then traced this and mirrored it on the CF line to create a full front bodice piece. 

 

I drew the design lines for the folds on, then traced the front again to incorporate the folds of the design. I trued the bottom edge to give a nice curve.

 

I moved the shoulder seam forward by 1.5cm. I was thinking of doing this anyway with the Saraste shirt and after doing it on this pattern I think I will. It makes a much better line.

The back consists of the yoke and shirt back with an overlay that has a pleat to create a bit more fullness, the overlay extends onto the front to create the RHS (as you look at it) front overlay. I created a hidden placket and the drafting was done. In keeping with the Saraste pattern I kept all seams at 1cm.

Then I had to start thinking about the construction. I realised I needed to sew the placket before creating the folds on the front, but that I'd also need to have part of the shirt constructed which meant the hems were the first thing to be done. I did baby hems as the fabric was quite fine and also used french seams. I sewed the side seams together on the same side as the overlay that goes from front to back (RHS from the viewers perspective). I made a mistake here and forgot to include the top bodice front. I ended up hemming the seam line and top stitching it down - most of it is hidden anyway.

Next, I constructed the placket. With all the bodice front layers pinned in place, I marked the placket on the top layer and stitched along the edges of the placket. Then I stitched the plackets pieces in place before flipping them to the inside and finishing the edges with overlock stitch. It's not the neatest and It is the first time I've ever done this type of placket, so I'm not worried about it. There are a few wrinkles, but they are hidden by the drape, so it's fine.

The top overlay was then folded into place and basted along the neckline. I also secured it to a lower layer at the end of the placket.

I sewed the yoke in place, using the burrito method and it came out super well. It is top stitched to keep it neat. Then I added the collar, which I did with my ususal collar application and again top stitched it.

The buttonholes were sewn on my new Pfaff. I like the control that the 4 step buttonhole gives. The ones I've made on this machine have all been better than the one-step ones I did on the Janome I used to have. 

To finish off,  I used a bias facing on the armholes, which I hand stitched to the inside, so that the stitches don't show on the top layer. I picked up some buttons from my local shop, but they feel a bit thin. I think I might replace them at some point.

The fabric is a cotton lawn, It's very cool and smooth to wear, but creases like mad. I often use this fabric to line summer dresses and the leftovers get used for lining bra cradles.  I had enough left to create this shirt. I thought this would use way more fabric than it did.  I think It would look stunning in layers of different colours or in a super sheer fabric and ideally something that doesn't crease quite as much, although it would look fab in linen.

I really quite like a challenge that involves a bit of drafting and this one turned out really well. not too tricky, but enough to get the brain cells working.

Coach Style Jacket - DIY (Free Pattern)

Free Pattern

When my son got back from Uni, he asked if I could make him a coach jacket. I had no idea what a coach jacket was, but after doing a bit of research discovered that it was one of the simplest of jacket styles out there. As this was a custom item, I matched the design to what he wanted and then I set to work to create the pattern.

I checked my stash and didn't have anything suitable so out came the drafting book and I set to work. As it's such a simple design it didn't take long to draft. It's basically an un darted overgarment block, with a simple collar. The front has diagonal welt pockets and is fastened with poppers.

I used Aldrich - Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. It's the first time I've made a garment using a block drafted from this book, although I've had it for a while. The drafting for menswear includes a 1cm seam allowance on some seams, but not all, which I found a little strange. I was pleasantly suprised that the first (and only) muslin I made was a pretty good fit. I made minor changes to the length to accomodate my son's personal taste and the collar needed a bit of work to make it comfortable.

I have decided to make the PDF of this available as free pattern (draft). You can download the file here. (you can check out all my free patterns here.) However, there are no pattern markings or instructions, bar my own notes and the information contained in this post. I didn't draft pockets, but cut the pieces out when my son had decided where he wanted the pockets to be. This design would also work well with patch pockets or zippered pockets. You may use this for your own personal use, but must not sell or distribute the pattern in any way. It's single size and would match an XL size (chest 114cm). One day I may grade it, but that takes a lot of time, which I don't have right now. My instructions are brief - I forgot to take construction photos as I just wanted to complete it - and wasn't planning on making a real pattern or anything - so lots of finished photos here.

On to construction. The outer layer was made from Cotton Drill. I used just over 2m. The body lining is a lovely softly woven cotton, about 1m (each of these was about 150cm wide). The fabrics were purchased from Minerva. The sleeves were lined with a traditional lining fabric, something slippy, again I used about 1m - this was a remnant from my stash. The snaps are Prymm. Interfacing was from my stash.

The pattern has 1cm seams throughout, except for the hems on the sleeves and body, which are 4 cm.

I cut the body fronts (x2), back (x1 on the fold), sleeves (x2 on the fold), front facing (x2), back neck facing (x1 on the fold), Collar (x2 on the fold) from the main fabric. All pieces cut on grain.

I also cut 2 welt strips and 4 pockets bags for the pockets (no pattern pieces for this)

I cut interfacing for the front facings, collar and interfaced the area  for the pockets and the hem line.

I cut 2 sleeves from acetate lining - cut to hem line length

I cut the body front and back from the cotton lining. - when cutting the back I added a couple of cm at the fold to give an ease pleat in the back.  -also cut to hem line length.

First I made the welt pockets in the front pieces (Catherine Daze Has a brilliant tutorial here).

Next I joined the front facings to the front body lining pieces.

On the back lining piece I stitched a few cm down from the centre back at the top and bottom  - the distance I had added on to the pattern to form the pleat. Press the pleat in to the fabric. You can see how this looks in the photo below.

The back neck facing is then sewn to the top edge of the lining. I added a hanging loop, but you could omit this if needed.

The collar pieces were sewn together - right sides together along the outside edges, seams trimmed, turned and pressed. The neck edge of the collar was basted together. Top stitch the outside edge if you wish.

I sewed the body front and back pieces together at the shoulder and and pressed the seam open. I did the same in the lining. Then the sleeves were attached flat and pressed towards the body - on both the lining and main fabrics.

The side seams were then sewn, from the hem, up the sides and down the sleeve. I also pressed the hems up.

Next I pinned on the collar. I started at CB and pinned along the neckline towards the CF. There should be a small space at the CF of a couple of  cm once the jacket is complete.

I sandwiched the collar between the outer layer and lining (right sides together). You will find stay stitching the neckline and clipping tight curves (not through the stitching) will help achieve a smooth collar insertion.

Once the collar was pinned in, I continued to match up the front edges of the jacket and facing. Then stitched from one end to the other, making sure to pivot neatly at the top of the CF edge (I marked this with pen on my interfacing so it matches perfectly. Turn and press - top stitch if you wish.

Next up was bagging the lining. I won't cover that here as there are many many posts on how this one from Grainline studio is particularly good. I left a gap in the hem to turn the jacket through, it's easier than leaving a gap in the sleeve.

If you don't want to bag the lining. you can simply turn up the hem, fold over and press 1cm so that the raw edge is enclosed and hand stitch in place. Do the same with the sleeve hems.

Next up are the fastenings. My son opted for silver snap fasteners, but you could also use buttons. Mark even spacing between them - 5 or 6 should be about right, depending on your preference. You could use a zip, but this would require a little alteration to the front pieces and facings - you would need to remove the overlapping sections. the zip should then be inserted between the front and the facing to give a clean finish.

So here we have one completed, coach jacket. Its a relatively simple make and has lots of opportunities for pattern hacking. It's exactly what he asked for and it's my 4th coat/ jacket make of the year so far.

Getting Ready

I have a lovely shirt that my hubby used to wear - it's much to big for him now. I love the fabric and was wondering what to make from it. I tried wrapping it around myself, trying to visualise it as a top - and decided it was far to big a pattern to get away with. I've decided to make it into a skirt - A line, the type you might find in Fat Face or White Stuff. So I've been busy trying to locate my patterns. I know I had loads and loads of patterns - but have a feeling I may have got rid during a moment of madness - either that or they are under a load of junk in the loft!
So - as I can't find them - I decided I'd have a go at drafting a pattern  - I know how a skirt is constructed, but i've never made my own pattern - i've just cut the fabric and hoped for the best! This time I need to be careful or I wont have enough fabric to complete the skirt. so I found this post on Sew Mad, showing how to construct a skirt block - so this week I'm giving it a go. Look out for updates as I upcycle this shirt into a stylish skirt.