Puzzling Pattern

 

 

I've followed the Studio Faro Well Suited Blog for a while and love the pattern puzzles. It's a great way to get you thinking and create something a little different to most patterns that you see out there.

A few years ago I made the a dress inspired by the Vivienne Drape dress - it's been one of my favourite dresses to wear to work. It was easy to draft and to construct.

Anyway, last week I decided I wanted a bit of a challenge and decided to have a go at the layered shirt. Anita gives some instructions for turning a block into the design for the shirt. Rather than starting with a block I used the Saraste shirt from Breaking the pattern as it already had the collar drafted and had the yoke and back sections at a good starting point - It also fits me well.

I marked the seam allowances on the front pieces, so I could omit them for drafting and lined up the princess seams from the bust point to the shoulder, this created the flare needed at the hem. I then traced this and mirrored it on the CF line to create a full front bodice piece. 

 

I drew the design lines for the folds on, then traced the front again to incorporate the folds of the design. I trued the bottom edge to give a nice curve.

 

I moved the shoulder seam forward by 1.5cm. I was thinking of doing this anyway with the Saraste shirt and after doing it on this pattern I think I will. It makes a much better line.

The back consists of the yoke and shirt back with an overlay that has a pleat to create a bit more fullness, the overlay extends onto the front to create the RHS (as you look at it) front overlay. I created a hidden placket and the drafting was done. In keeping with the Saraste pattern I kept all seams at 1cm.

Then I had to start thinking about the construction. I realised I needed to sew the placket before creating the folds on the front, but that I'd also need to have part of the shirt constructed which meant the hems were the first thing to be done. I did baby hems as the fabric was quite fine and also used french seams. I sewed the side seams together on the same side as the overlay that goes from front to back (RHS from the viewers perspective). I made a mistake here and forgot to include the top bodice front. I ended up hemming the seam line and top stitching it down - most of it is hidden anyway.

Next, I constructed the placket. With all the bodice front layers pinned in place, I marked the placket on the top layer and stitched along the edges of the placket. Then I stitched the plackets pieces in place before flipping them to the inside and finishing the edges with overlock stitch. It's not the neatest and It is the first time I've ever done this type of placket, so I'm not worried about it. There are a few wrinkles, but they are hidden by the drape, so it's fine.

The top overlay was then folded into place and basted along the neckline. I also secured it to a lower layer at the end of the placket.

I sewed the yoke in place, using the burrito method and it came out super well. It is top stitched to keep it neat. Then I added the collar, which I did with my ususal collar application and again top stitched it.

The buttonholes were sewn on my new Pfaff. I like the control that the 4 step buttonhole gives. The ones I've made on this machine have all been better than the one-step ones I did on the Janome I used to have. 

To finish off,  I used a bias facing on the armholes, which I hand stitched to the inside, so that the stitches don't show on the top layer. I picked up some buttons from my local shop, but they feel a bit thin. I think I might replace them at some point.

The fabric is a cotton lawn, It's very cool and smooth to wear, but creases like mad. I often use this fabric to line summer dresses and the leftovers get used for lining bra cradles.  I had enough left to create this shirt. I thought this would use way more fabric than it did.  I think It would look stunning in layers of different colours or in a super sheer fabric and ideally something that doesn't crease quite as much, although it would look fab in linen.

I really quite like a challenge that involves a bit of drafting and this one turned out really well. not too tricky, but enough to get the brain cells working.

Don't get Shirty!

For the first time ever I have made my husband a shirt from a Burdastyle magazine pattern. Actually, it's the first time I have made him anything from a commercially available pattern. All his other shirts have been made by using a rub off of one of his favourite shirts, and jackets have been self-drafted. So why did I wait so long to make him a shirt from a pattern?

Well, most of the Burdastyle magazine patterns for men fall into a very small size range and they just wouldn't fit. However, recently John has lost some weight and now falls within the size range offered in the magazines and I can make a range of different items without having to draft them myself. This shirt was an experiment in testing fit and checking if the sizes run true to measurements. I know I can trust a Burda size 38 for myself but need to know which size to make for John.

The pattern choice was the short sleeve shirt #143 from the June 2016 issue of the magazine. It has short sleeves with sleeve bands and shoulder tabs. A front button band, two patch pockets with flaps and side vents at the hem. It's available in sizes 44 to 60. I traced and cut a straight size 56. I used a seam allowance of 12mm (1/2 inch)

I did make some minor changes to the pattern. I added a couple of inches of length to the front as John often finds shirts too short. I omitted the pockets and shoulder tabs. I was going to include one pocket and the sleeve bands but decided against it during the making process. I also used more buttons than recommended.

As I have made quite a few shirts before the construction was simple. The back has two darts to add shaping and these were sewn first. The button bands were interfaced with a light stretch interfacing, which is my go-to for shirts as it doesn't bubble the way some interfacing does when it's been washed a few times. The collar and stand were interfaced with a layer of firm but soft sew-in interfacing which I have found perfect to give the right amount of support without being too stiff.

My fabric was a very light tana lawn in pale grey with a floral print. It's definitely a summer weight fabric and judging by the weather we are having may not get loads of wear this year!

Some people seem to find shirt-making difficult. I have come to the realisation that it's not a hard thing to do, you just need to take your time and be precise. I take time to mark the placement of the collar, stand and centre front as I have found it helps me to be accurate. For the first time, I fully enclosed all the raw edges. I felt that this very light fabric needed it. The back yoke, collar and stand are all enclosed anyway, but I used flat felled seams to attach the sleeves and french seams at the sides. The hems were double turned and topstitched.

I completed all of the construction on my Bernina 707 except the buttonholes which I did with the one-step buttonhole function on my Janome. I sometimes have issues with making buttonholes, but these all went in perfectly. The buttons were sewn on by hand. John chose the buttons at Abakhan Fabrics in Liverpool last week.

I think the fit of this shirt is pretty good. It has a slim shape but the width of the back is good and fits well. I particularly like the shaping offered by the back darts. They really do stop the shirt looking baggy.

I think John likes it. He even posed for photos - George Michael style!