Long Shirt

 

This is one of those patterns that I have had on my ‘to make’ list for quite some time.
Since 2012 in fact. It’s pattern 117 from the 04/2012 issue of Burdastyle Magazine.

It’s a tunic-length shirt with a gathered flounce at the back. So it’s business in the front and party in the back. I’ll put it out there that it needs a much thicker belt - I’m going to make an obi style one to go with it and I think it will look fab with my pinstriped waistcoat. I also think it would benefit from being worn with slim trousers or leggings and a high heel. The length does shorten my already short legs!!!!! And accentuating the waist more will help balance my long torso. However, styling issues aside this is an absolute winner, mainly down to the fabric.

 

The fabric is a stable cotton sateen, which I have heard referred to as the dressmaker’s shirting, and I can see why. The hand of the fabric is smooth and silky to the touch. It’s light but keeps its shape and is a perfect transitional fabric. Light enough for cooler summer days and perfect for spring and autumn. I think you all owe me a huge shoutout today. It was the first time I wore this to work. I’m an art teacher and today involved clay, 3D modelling, acrylic paint, lino printing, painting and ink drawing and I still came home with this shirt clean - not sure how!

 

I love the weave on this fabric, it adds to the feel of luxury. It sews and presses beautifully, but I do recommend using a microtex needle to avoid any unwanted puckers.

 

As with most Burdastyle magazine patterns the instructions are minimal; for most patterns, I don’t use them. I normally cut a size 38, but for this shirt, I went down to the size 36 and I’m glad I did - the 38 would have been too big. The collar and cuffs and the top part of the back ‘skirt’ section are interfaced with iron-on interfacing. This is to support the weight of the ruffles, and it does pull back a little here, so it’s definitely needed. The collar is a flat collar designed to be worn open at the neck. I’m not a huge fan of this collar style and prefer a proper shirt collar, but I quite like it here.

 

I didn’t make any alterations for the main body, but I did flatten the sleeve cap and widen the sleeve a little as the original was very slim and I have wider biceps. The hem was sewn using a 3 step baby hem method, which I love to use on curved hems or fine fabric as it gives a nice flat finish.

 

I think this would make a good shirt to wear over the top of a slip dress or beach wear as it’s so light and airy.  Here’s waiting for my holiday to arrive!

 

Puzzling Pattern

 

 

I've followed the Studio Faro Well Suited Blog for a while and love the pattern puzzles. It's a great way to get you thinking and create something a little different to most patterns that you see out there.

A few years ago I made the a dress inspired by the Vivienne Drape dress - it's been one of my favourite dresses to wear to work. It was easy to draft and to construct.

Anyway, last week I decided I wanted a bit of a challenge and decided to have a go at the layered shirt. Anita gives some instructions for turning a block into the design for the shirt. Rather than starting with a block I used the Saraste shirt from Breaking the pattern as it already had the collar drafted and had the yoke and back sections at a good starting point - It also fits me well.

I marked the seam allowances on the front pieces, so I could omit them for drafting and lined up the princess seams from the bust point to the shoulder, this created the flare needed at the hem. I then traced this and mirrored it on the CF line to create a full front bodice piece. 

 

I drew the design lines for the folds on, then traced the front again to incorporate the folds of the design. I trued the bottom edge to give a nice curve.

 

I moved the shoulder seam forward by 1.5cm. I was thinking of doing this anyway with the Saraste shirt and after doing it on this pattern I think I will. It makes a much better line.

The back consists of the yoke and shirt back with an overlay that has a pleat to create a bit more fullness, the overlay extends onto the front to create the RHS (as you look at it) front overlay. I created a hidden placket and the drafting was done. In keeping with the Saraste pattern I kept all seams at 1cm.

Then I had to start thinking about the construction. I realised I needed to sew the placket before creating the folds on the front, but that I'd also need to have part of the shirt constructed which meant the hems were the first thing to be done. I did baby hems as the fabric was quite fine and also used french seams. I sewed the side seams together on the same side as the overlay that goes from front to back (RHS from the viewers perspective). I made a mistake here and forgot to include the top bodice front. I ended up hemming the seam line and top stitching it down - most of it is hidden anyway.

Next, I constructed the placket. With all the bodice front layers pinned in place, I marked the placket on the top layer and stitched along the edges of the placket. Then I stitched the plackets pieces in place before flipping them to the inside and finishing the edges with overlock stitch. It's not the neatest and It is the first time I've ever done this type of placket, so I'm not worried about it. There are a few wrinkles, but they are hidden by the drape, so it's fine.

The top overlay was then folded into place and basted along the neckline. I also secured it to a lower layer at the end of the placket.

I sewed the yoke in place, using the burrito method and it came out super well. It is top stitched to keep it neat. Then I added the collar, which I did with my ususal collar application and again top stitched it.

The buttonholes were sewn on my new Pfaff. I like the control that the 4 step buttonhole gives. The ones I've made on this machine have all been better than the one-step ones I did on the Janome I used to have. 

To finish off,  I used a bias facing on the armholes, which I hand stitched to the inside, so that the stitches don't show on the top layer. I picked up some buttons from my local shop, but they feel a bit thin. I think I might replace them at some point.

The fabric is a cotton lawn, It's very cool and smooth to wear, but creases like mad. I often use this fabric to line summer dresses and the leftovers get used for lining bra cradles.  I had enough left to create this shirt. I thought this would use way more fabric than it did.  I think It would look stunning in layers of different colours or in a super sheer fabric and ideally something that doesn't crease quite as much, although it would look fab in linen.

I really quite like a challenge that involves a bit of drafting and this one turned out really well. not too tricky, but enough to get the brain cells working.

Pussy Bow Saraste Shirt

Late last year, when I was thinking about my sewing plans for this year, one of the items I wanted to sew was a pussy-bow blouse. I had scored the Sew Over It Pussy Bow Blouse at a pattern swap and really did think that it would be the way to go. However, after making up a muslin, I didn't like the neck opening and the thickness of the bow. I wanted something more substantial, more wearable and versatile.

I had made the Saraste shirt dress from Breaking the Pattern by Named clothing last year and knew that the fit was pretty good. I decided to use this as my base pattern and set to tracing out the additional pieces in my size (3).  I made the basic shirt and then cut a long tie to make the bow. This slows me to wear it with or without the bow as the mood takes me and give a more versatile piece of clothing.

My hubby had bought me this beautiful bamboo silk from Raystitch for Christmas and I knew that this was the right fabric to use. I had originally seen this fabric when on a course in London near the Raystitch shop and I called in between my course finishing and my train home. This fabric has a beautiful hand, it's drapey but presses well. it doesn't really fray but creases a. lot. I used very lightweight interfacing for the collar, button stand and cuffs.

I followed the pattern instructions for the shirt and it came out really well. I did manage to stretch out the shoulders a little bit when sewing them, which is unfortunate, but I can live with it. (truth be told I can't be bothered to take it apart and redo it). The sleeve has quite an odd construction. Whereas a normal shirt has an underarm seam and then a sleeve placket cut into the sleeve; this design has the seam at the back of the sleeve and a vent is formed by turning under the open edges at the bottom of the sleeve before adding the cuffs. In my opinion, this is not the best way to construct a sleeve and if doing it again, I'd adapt the sleeve to be more like a normal shirt pattern.

I had made most of this shirt way before lockdown, but then it got busy at work and I didn't have time to complete it. I needed to buy matching buttons but the week before lockdown I was on a residential all weekend with children from my class so I didn't get the chance to buy any. However a few weeks ago I had bought some self-cover buttons for a wedding dress I'm making, but the fabric was just not behaving and I couldn't use them for the dress. The bamboo silk, however, was perfect for self-covered buttons and I spent an evening making them up. Then the project sat and waited for a few other things to be almost completed before I made the buttonholes. I usually use my Bernina for all my sewing, but my back up machine is a much newer Janome with a one-step buttonhole function. I spent the second Saturday of lockdown finishing off a few projects and doing a mammoth buttonhole making session. I'm always a bit nervous when making buttonholes as they are a nightmare to remove if they go wrong. Everything went well and all the buttonholes on the blouse turned out well - phew!

This blouse has been hung up waiting to be photographed for 3 weeks, I finally got around to doing it today. While I love, love, love the bright blue skies and sunshine we've been having. it does cast strong shadows on our back yard. So today's bright, but overcast weather was much better for taking photos. I dragged my hubby out to act as photographer - as usual, and here we go - blogged item of clothing!!!!

I doubt I'll be wearing this much in the next few weeks, it might get some wear if lockdown ends before the weather gets too warm, but I think once we get to the autumn, this combo of the pussy-bow blouse and my wool wide-legged trousers will get plenty of wear, especially at work. I'm glad I went with this combination as I have so many different ways to wear it.

Burda Button-up

I've had it in mind to make a button up shirt for some time. I'd been considering the Kalle, but realised that in my extensive stash of Burdastyle magazines there were a lot of shirt patterns.

I particularly like sleeveless tops as I can layer them really well and they work for all seasons. so once I spotted this beautiful indigo batik cotton at The Natural Fabric Store in when I was on holiday in August I knew it was the perfect fabric for a sleeveless button-up shirt. The fabric is a narrow lightweight cotton. I bought 2m. Plenty to make a sleeveless blouse and there's enough left over to squeeze out a Sorbetto too.

I chose #103 from the June 2013 issue. Although this pattern is sleeveless, it has the same pattern pieces as a shirtdress from the same issue so you could add sleeve if you wish.

The pattern only calls for one yoke piece, but I cut two so I could enclose the internal seams. I didn't really follow the instructions and instead followed the Grainline Archer method of sewing the collar.
This provides a neat clean finish to the neckline. The armholes are finished with bias binding made from my fabric.

I made a size 38, which is my go-to size for Burdastyle and didn't make a muslin. the only change I think I'd make if I were to make this again is to raise the bottom of the armhole by about 1cm. If you were adding sleeves it is perfect as it is, but I think just a tad higher for a sleeveless garment would improve this pattern. I've already worn this with my new Ginger Jeans and will wear it a ton in the summer months.

Shirt Success

Yeah - I finally managed to make a shirt I'm happy with.

I have made only a few shirts. I've never used a pattern - each one has been a rub off of a commercial shirt. I have had a few problems with the fit and styling. One of the biggest problems was making the collar and cuffs firm enough.

So this was the shirt I made for John for his birthday. I still think there are a couple of issues, but its a big improvement on the last one.

A couple of years ago I traced a shirt that fitted him well and used it to make my pattern. It was not too bad, but the collar was a bit tight and the length a little bit short. I fixed these issues for the next version, but I still hadn't sorted out the floppy collar. which was not aided by the soft fabric.

This time I decided to sort out the collar and cuffs and I also included a separate button placket, where the previous versions had a simple folded over CF edge.

I did quite a bit of reading about collar construction techniques and how it should be interfaced. I used a combination of techniques, but I do find the Grainline Archer sewalong really helpful generally for sewing shirts. However I didn't use this technique this time. I made the collar and pressed it into shape, attached the stand and then added the collar to the stand.

To ensure the correct firmness and crisp finish I actually used a double layer of interfacing. I used a medium firm iron on and this seemed to work really well.

The seams were faux flat felled - next time I would like to try doing a proper flat felled seam. The hem was a rolled hem, but done without a rolled hem foot.

My daughter chose the buttons and I initially though they were a little bit too big. I do think they work though, but next time I'd go a bit smaller.

I know I've done a good job when John asks me if I'd made it! He was impressed with the finish and initially though it was a RTW shirt. NO CHANCE!

Getting Ready

I have a lovely shirt that my hubby used to wear - it's much to big for him now. I love the fabric and was wondering what to make from it. I tried wrapping it around myself, trying to visualise it as a top - and decided it was far to big a pattern to get away with. I've decided to make it into a skirt - A line, the type you might find in Fat Face or White Stuff. So I've been busy trying to locate my patterns. I know I had loads and loads of patterns - but have a feeling I may have got rid during a moment of madness - either that or they are under a load of junk in the loft!
So - as I can't find them - I decided I'd have a go at drafting a pattern  - I know how a skirt is constructed, but i've never made my own pattern - i've just cut the fabric and hoped for the best! This time I need to be careful or I wont have enough fabric to complete the skirt. so I found this post on Sew Mad, showing how to construct a skirt block - so this week I'm giving it a go. Look out for updates as I upcycle this shirt into a stylish skirt.