Peppermint Wrap top - Free Pattern Review

As soon as this pattern was released it went on my to make list. Downloaded straight away, but I've only just got around to making it up. I never look forward to taping together PDF patterns but this one wasn't too onerous. It's a free pattern as part of Peppermint Magazine's Sewing school - you can find the pattern here.

I love that this design has quite a high wrap. I have made a few wrap patterns that have needed some serious adapting to stop them gaping, I've used some additional techniques on this version to help secure a close fitting neckline. There's quite a bit of ease on the pattern and I fall between sizes so I went with the smaller one, which was a size C.

 

The fabric was given to me by Minerva crafts in an exchange for a review and you'll be able to read  it on their blog soon. It's a cotton stretch sateen - printed on one side, not too light, not too heavy. I initially planned to make a jumpsuit, but wanted a greater range of options, so I decided to make two separates that can give a faux Jumpsuit look, pairing this with the peppermint wide leg pants in the same fabric, that I wrote about here.

One of the things I really loved about the instructions, was the construction of the neckline edge and back facing. The front neckline is double folded to create a baby hem, and the clever application of the back facing ensures a smooth neckline and that the shoulder seams are neatly hidden away. I'll use this technique again.

 

 

As my fabric had quite a bit of stretch I did not want the front neckline to stretch out of shape or gape so I reinforced it. I sewed a strip of the stable selvedge edge onto the neckline edge before turning and hemming it. 

 

This does add a little bit of bulk but it's a great way to stabilise edges if you don't have any stay tape/ twill tape to hand. I've also done something similar with thin strips of interfacing or very narrow ribbon. It really does prevent fabric cut on the bias from stretching out.

 

 

The pattern instructions have you construct the top using french seams, which give a beautiful finish on fine fabrics. This fabric had a bit too much body for this type of seam allowance, so I just used my overlocker. 

 

The fabric is printed, which means that one side is plain - and white - it means that if you can see the reverse side, it's not such a great look. I had considered that I'd be able to see the reverse of the fabic on the ties and should I cut two extra and create a facing? I didn't, I went with the instructions, cut a single layer, hemmed the ties, tied the top and EUGH! it looked awful. I cut the ties off, Recut the tie pieces (x4) and assembled them inside out, attached to the bocice front, before turning and securing the opening with top stitching - it looks much better.

 

 

Initially I planned to wear these two pieces together, but found it a bit overwhelming and decided that they look much better as separates. 

 

 

 

I  thought  the top might be a little too short, but it's ok, I would consider adding just a little bit of length next time. It's great with a high waisted skirt/ trousers, but not so good with a lower cut waistline.

 

The coverage of this top is great. It doesnt gape, stays put, is comfy and I like it more than I expected to. win-win.

Walking, Sewing, Painting

I often have a lot of things on the go, it's quite normal and it's how I work. The last couple of weeks have been strange as I haven't really finished much, but there is a lot in the pipeline. The end of term came and went in a strange socially distanced way and the school holidays began. I find it quite a stange time anyway and often spend the first week or so redrafting my schemes of work ready for September. However I know there will be some updates H&S advice coming out in August and I don't want to have to do the planning twice, so I'm leaving it until I know what the recommendations are for teaching Art & Design in our new normal. I'll probably spend a big chunk of the last week of the holiday in school sorting out my classroom and getting prepared.

I have started a few projects and have been busy printing and taping PDF patterns ready to cut and sew. I have prepped fabric for my next Minerva makes and the first item is almost complete - just a fastening to go.

On my sewing table right now...

Almost finished are Burdastyle Culottes 03/2015 #126. They have quite a nice overlapped pleat at the front more details to come soon once I've finished the fastening.

Also almost finished and just needing a button and buttonhole are these basic shorts. I downloaded this pattern from a spanish website a few months ago, but it seems to have disappeared from the the internet. The drafting is great but it only has a spec sheet rather than full instructions, but that's ok with me - it's a basic design - fits well too.

I also have this stunning cotton Sateen from Minerva to make up. It's washed and ready to go and I think I have my patterns identified - but I keep changing my mind!!!

Recent makes have been lingerie related and I'm on a bit of a roll. I have now made 3 Watson bras and I'm starting to plan pattern hacks!!! I made this fun bra and knickers from this Rico jersey, which was left over from a t shirt I made a while back. I made the knickers in a size small and used bands rather than elastic -just to try it out - I quite like it.

I also made another pair of the knickers to match the simplicity 8436 bra I made a few weeks ago. I increased the rise by a couple of cm as they sit a little too low without. This version uses some beige lingerie lace with some stretch. I cut both the bands and elastic at 85% of the openings and it seems to be ok.

I also have some navy stretch lace and nude stretch mesh to make a Noelle Bralette and Panties set, but I need to get some elastics and findings.

Apart from sewing I have been painting. Creating a painting is usually quite a long process and i need to sit and live with them before I decided if they are finished. Often I'll work on serveral pieces at once, working on one, while another one dries. I've currently got 4 on the go and they are all inspired by walks along or close to the coast where I live. I try to get out for at least a 4 mile walk each day and prefer something a bit longer. I have found that this activity has been incredibly important to help keep good mental health during the lockdown.

Here are some of the in progress shots of my paintings - Non are quite finished yet.

I've even managed to repaint the garden furniture - it was looking rather tired and now its bright blue!

On Sunday we went to visit family. It was great to see people in the flesh instead of over a screen. We did a long day and got home very late but at least we were able to sleep in our own bed!

Wednesday was my birthday and John, Bethan and I (and the dog) drove up to Seahouses and then walked over the fields, along the Northumberland Coastal Path to Bamburgh. It was a pleasant walk, we had lunch at a local pub before walking back to Seahouses along the beach.

It's almost an hour's drive and it was nearly 4 by the time we arrived home. I had been in just a few minutes when my lovely friend Allison dropped by with my birthday gift of a large piece of waxed cotton. Now I just need to decide what to make with it.

I've had a new fitbit and the Vivienne Westwood designed war child T shirt from the family. I've also had a bit of money towards a new sewing machine. I'm looking to upgrade and thinking about a couple of different machines at the moment. The trouble is that my local store are not doing demonstrations due to Covid and I really want to try before I buy - so I might have to wait a while. I primarily use my machine for garment sewing including outerwear and lingerie, so it needs to be able to handle all kings of fabrics. I do a bit of quilting every now and again.

I'm considering the Bernette 38. It has all the functions I need in a machine, but I need something that can handle thick fabrics - for things like jeans making. I don't know what it's capability is for this type of sewing.

The other machine(s) I'm considering are the Juki HZL G210/220 They have the industrial box feed system and are marketed as begin able to handle lots of fabric - they also have lots of decorative stitches - I'm not sure I'd use them all, but am drawn to the power of these machines.

If you have either the Bernette 38 or the Juki HZL G210/220, do let me know what you think of them. It might help me make a decision.

There we go - You're all caught up with what I've been up to. so how are your days panning out?

Ginger Jeans Take Two

 I made more Ginger Jeans. This pattern is fast becoming a staple and I've just cut out a pair of cropped trousers using the same pattern. I made these jeans to review some slub stretch denim which was sent to me free of charge in exchange for my review.

These have been getting some serious wear this summer and I've had lots of compliments when wearing them. Alongside my Doc Marten sandals, they have become my casual uniform!!
I wore them for pounding the streets of Liverpool and Chester last week while we were visiting our friends. You can check out my full post and review over on the Minerva Blog.