As soon as this pattern was released it went on my to make list. Downloaded straight away, but I've only just got around to making it up. I never look forward to taping together PDF patterns but this one wasn't too onerous. It's a free pattern as part of Peppermint Magazine's Sewing school - you can find the pattern here.
I love that this design has quite a high wrap. I have made a few wrap patterns that have needed some serious adapting to stop them gaping, I've used some additional techniques on this version to help secure a close fitting neckline. There's quite a bit of ease on the pattern and I fall between sizes so I went with the smaller one, which was a size C.
The fabric was given to me by Minerva crafts in an exchange for a review and you'll be able to read it on their blog soon. It's a cotton stretch sateen - printed on one side, not too light, not too heavy. I initially planned to make a jumpsuit, but wanted a greater range of options, so I decided to make two separates that can give a faux Jumpsuit look, pairing this with the peppermint wide leg pants in the same fabric, that I wrote about here.
One of the things I really loved about the instructions, was the construction of the neckline edge and back facing. The front neckline is double folded to create a baby hem, and the clever application of the back facing ensures a smooth neckline and that the shoulder seams are neatly hidden away. I'll use this technique again.
As my fabric had quite a bit of stretch I did not want the front neckline to stretch out of shape or gape so I reinforced it. I sewed a strip of the stable selvedge edge onto the neckline edge before turning and hemming it.
This does add a little bit of bulk but it's a great way to stabilise edges if you don't have any stay tape/ twill tape to hand. I've also done something similar with thin strips of interfacing or very narrow ribbon. It really does prevent fabric cut on the bias from stretching out.
The pattern instructions have you construct the top using french seams, which give a beautiful finish on fine fabrics. This fabric had a bit too much body for this type of seam allowance, so I just used my overlocker.
The fabric is printed, which means that one side is plain - and white - it means that if you can see the reverse side, it's not such a great look. I had considered that I'd be able to see the reverse of the fabic on the ties and should I cut two extra and create a facing? I didn't, I went with the instructions, cut a single layer, hemmed the ties, tied the top and EUGH! it looked awful. I cut the ties off, Recut the tie pieces (x4) and assembled them inside out, attached to the bocice front, before turning and securing the opening with top stitching - it looks much better.
Initially I planned to wear these two pieces together, but found it a bit overwhelming and decided that they look much better as separates.
I thought the top might be a little too short, but it's ok, I would consider adding just a little bit of length next time. It's great with a high waisted skirt/ trousers, but not so good with a lower cut waistline.
The coverage of this top is great. It doesnt gape, stays put, is comfy and I like it more than I expected to. win-win.
