Showing posts with label mccalls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mccalls. Show all posts

Saturday, 23 May 2020

Boilersuit Bandwagon





Here I am chanelling my past in a vintage jumpsuit.

So, I sold out. I made what I thought I wouldn't. Jumpsuit, flightsuit, boilersuit, coverall - whatever you call it, it's certainly a trend right now. I'm not one for following trends, but I do love an item of clothing I can throw on and just wear, without much thought. The nearest I have ever got to making a jumpsuit is making the Burnside Bibs, which I managed to complete just after Christmas and I really like them. The photos were taken very hurriedly by my daughter as it's blowing an absolute hoolie out there today.


Back in the late 80's I worked for a hair salon franchise and the uniform for the juniors was a white boiler suit with short sleeves and red ties. Other memebers of staff wore either black or grey suits in the same style. It's safe to say it put me off! So i'm a little bit surprised at myself with this make.


There are so many patterns out there, every pattern company has one and the latest offerings are from the Alexa Jumpsuit from TATB and the Blanca flightsuit from Closet Case Patterns. However I had a secret weapon. A free to me pattern and free to me fabric.


As part of a stash of patterns I recieved from a lady on freecycle I scored this 1984 Brooke Shields inspired pattern. I was 13 then, and probably wouldn't have worn this at the time. It's McCalls 8926 and it also comes in a childs version 8927 so you can be all matchy matchy if you wish. The pattern was size 14/16 and aready cut to the size 14.


Now I'm a bit wary of excessive ease in 80's patterns and in the big 4 in general, so before cutting into the fabric I did a lot of measuring to check the size. The previous owner had already folded out a couple of centimetres from the width of the front and back body pieces. I measured carefully and decided that the same adjustment would work for me. I have a long torso and after more measuring of pattern pieces and myself. I knew that I needed to lengthen the body and added an inch to the body, just above the waist. This turned out to be the perfect amount of length to add. The rest of the pattern I left as it was.


I hadn't realised at first, but the fronts overlap on an angle, this seemed a little odd, but I went with it.
Some of the construction seemed rather unusual and left me scratching my head on occassion, as there are far better and easier ways to construct some parts of the design, for example using the burrito method for sewing the yoke.


The only part of the instructions that was dreadful, was the collar construction. To start with, sewing anything with a tight curve and a 1.5cm seam allowance is a nightmare. I hadn't realised how I have become used to much smaller seam allowances.


I followed the instructions and was left with an unsatisfactory finish in the inside of the neck edge on the front bodice piece where raw edges were visible. I ended up carefully unpicking and reconstructing it in a slightly different way to fully enclose all the raw edges. As I'd already trimmed these, this was not easy and not perfect. In the process I'd also stretched out the top collar edge and it's ended up with a few puckers in it.


However the rest of the construction went without incident and the edges are all finished well. I really like the top stitching at the bottom of the front opening -really neat, in fact, collar and facing apart, it's actually a fairly easy sew. I made the short sleeve version and included patch pockets on the front.


I also top stitched the sleeve seam onto the bodice, which gives a lovely professional finish to the seams.


The fabric came from a fabric and pattern swap locally, sometime last year. I love the colour - it's perfect summer colour. It sewed beautifully and needed very few pins to keep it in place. I have sewed a self coloured belt to go with this, but need a couple of D rings to finish it off, so it's being worn with other belts at the moment. The belt loops are made in the same way you might make bias binding, but in the straight grain. I positioned them as directed, just above the pocket openeing, forgetting I'd lengthened the pieces and really needed to attach them a touch higher, but I can live with it.


I also raided my stash of buttons to find something suitable, but I didn't have anything that would match. however I had 3 self cover buttons of a good size and used those instead.


All in all this is a virtually free sew, as the fabric was gifted to me, as was the pattern, The thread and notions were from my stash.


So am I loving the boilersuit trend? Well that remains to be seen - lets just see how much wear this gets over the summer? I'm looking for ways to style this - so hit me with your ideas. I'm also interested to know if you are jumping on this trend.

Wednesday, 15 April 2020

Pattern Haul

Way way back, in the distant time that was before lockdown - Ok I mean February- I scored a whole lot of sewing patterns on Freecycle. I had a lovely chat to the lady I received these from, only to discover despite living up here in Northumberland, she was originally from a town local to where I grew up, some 180 miles away - it's a small world, isn't it?

Anyway - back to the haul. I was gifted a large plastic bag of patterns mostly from the '80s. But as we are seeing a resurgence of 80's music and fashion I'm pretty sure some of these will come back around very soon, if not already in there. I did give some of the easier patterns to a friend of mine who is just learning to sew. there are some magazine patterns too, mostly from Prima. Also included was the pattern sheet/ instructions from a 1984 edition of Burdastyle magazine.

I thought I'd review these here and ask you for your opinions about them. I may give some of these away as some are not in my size/ not my style. Anyway here goes...

First up - stuff I might actually make.

Vintage Simplicity 7687, circa 1968. I love the simple lines on this one, but its a single size and my waist/ hips don't match this size. I'm going to have a look at grading this to fit.


Vintage Maudella 5812  - 1970's, but not sure which year? (Maudella were the forerunners to New look patterns) I love this but I am gutted that there is a skirt piece missing. I'm sure I can draft one to match - again I need to check the size.


Vintage Butterick 5852, this one is 1972. I love the Jumper dress. Personally, I like the long version, but the short version could be cute too, maybe paired with wide trousers rather than flares. This one should fit.


Vintage Simplicity 7498, 1968. I love this wrap skirt and may have a go with some denim I have in my stash - again I'm going to have to grade up I think. I like the version with the buckles.


Next up are the patterns that I could be tempted into making at some point, but I have some concerns about.

McCalls 8926, 1984. There is definitely a Jumpsuit trend still going strong. I quite like this, but think that it could be a bit too wide across the shoulders. It also reminds me of a uniform I had to wear at work in 1989. 


Maudella 5955, again the 1970's. I quite like empire line dresses, but am always concerned that they can make you look pregnant when you're not - could be a good maternity pattern in the right fabric. - not for me though.


New Look 6277, 1980's Simple shirt dress - nothing wrong with this, I've just got patterns I prefer.
Butterick 3353. The 1980s - the same.


Simplicity 5161, 1981 - This is so on trend - think Wilder Gown. It looks quite nice in the light floaty fabric, but again, unless you want to look pregnant... or you are pregnant...


Simplicity 6395, 1980's Looks a lot like the In The folds jumpsuit from Peppermint magazine. Probably won't make this one.

  

Style 4092, again 1980's Simple boxy top - good for beginners I think -might make, or use it as a teaching pattern for my daughter. 
 

Burda 7163, 1980's - again on-trend, not sure it's my trend but my kids might like this one.


Finally, those that I really wonder why someone would ever make a sewing pattern for. There's a couple of maternity patterns in this lot - if you'd Like them, let me know and I can post them out - UK only.

Maternity Patterns - the Maudella one is ok, but the other one...


No shape patterns - although the cold shoulder is ok.


Shapeless and oversized - love it


Ruffles and gathers and a plunging neckline - no thanks


This is actually ok - but rather shapeless - good for someone new to sewing.
 

Quite like a trenchcoat - but this looks very oversized - I don't think I could cope with those shoulders.
 

 Inoffensive, bland.

So do you have a pattern stash? Any suggestions for what to do with some of these? I feel a trip to the charity shop might be in order once lockdown is over. Can't wait to try some of these though.

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