Traveller Trousers

 

After my last make, which I love, I decided to try similar shape trousers, but with some unusual features. These are made from a pattern from the Burdastyle Magazine from a few years ago and are named the traveller trousers. I thought they'd be perfect in this purple linen. The sample in the magazine looked like it was made in a similar weight fabric to linen, so I went ahead with these.

 

 

Prior to making these, I prewashed the fabric as linen can sometimes shrink a little on its first wash and it always seems to have a nicer hand once it’s been laundered. I also carefully measured the pattern pieces to determine which size to make.

 

The illustration seems to imply these are a very loose fit, but the magazine photos looked quite snug. I did not want snug trousers! I usually cut a size 38 in Burdatyle, but I’m aware that my hips are at least a size 40 right now, mostly down to skating developing my thighs and butt!!!!

I ended up tracing the 42 leg, grading to 40 at the high hip and waist - I should have gone for the 38 at the waist!!!!!! There are lots of adjustment seams, but due to the construction methods, the back waistband is trickier to adjust once sewn.

The pattern features unusual seaming and pockets. There is a side insert that has two pockets, one at hip level and a deeper one at the thigh. The inserts then curve to a point at mid-calf where the front and back legs join. This pocket insert makes this at least an intermediate make and I wouldn’t advise it for beginners. The front has a fly and ties that are secured into the side seam of the waistband and run through the waistband as a channel, popping out through buttonholes.

It’s a very interesting design and was nice to sew in this fabric. I’m still in two minds about it and I think I should have graded to a smaller waist size. I ended up adding some elastic into the back waist, which is less than ideal to accommodate my sizing error. I do like the fit on the hip and legs though and this is a great one for travelling - It’d definitely going in my holiday suitcase. I just wish I’d taken a little more time to get the waistband fit right - hey but you live and learn and I made it work.

 

Burnsides - take two

A couple of years ago I made the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs for the first time. I love the styling and the cut and the fact that they are just super cool and very easy to wear.  and you can read my post about them here. However, I found I had a couple of issues with the ones I had made.

The fabric was a stretch twill from Minerva. Quite utilitarian and I liked it. The stretch made these super comfy and very forgiving on fit. I made the slightly fitted waist version with the zip[ and had graded from a 6 at the waist to an 8 at the hip. perfect in the stretch fabric, butI found I wasn't 100% happy with the fit across my hips, it seemed to pull when first worn, but then did relax after a bit. Second issue - leg length. I'd hemmed these too short and I really did want full length versions! Everytime I wore the I always felt a tad uncomfortable! and finally I have a long body and always felt that the bib was a little bit low for my liking.

Said twill Burnside Bibs were donated to my friend who is a little shorter that me - she loves them!!!! I have just made version 2 and in the interests of recording my alterations I'm writing about it here.

First up - Fabric choice. This is John Kaldor Salso Linen Cotton from Minerva and I ordered 3m. This is one of the recommended fabric choices for this pattern and it's defo summer weight!

I slashed and spread the bib on the lengthen and shorten line and added about 5cm to the height. As I had already cut the pattern to a size 6 on top and an 8 from the hips I kept the top and the waist as they were and when my pattern pieces were placed on the fabric I used taillors chalk to draw in the size 10 line from the hips to the hem on the outside leg seams only - grading to the 6 at the waist. I also added 3 inches to the length.

I was very economical with my pattern cutting and had very little wastage. There was enough left to cut out a linen t shirt, which will get a lot of wear over the summer months. I love it when I get a bonus make out of my fabric.

I think that this version of this pattern is a much better fit and more me. It gives the impression of height and creates a long line - useful when you have short legs!

I followed the instructions as the pattern does have a few interesting construction notes, which I wanted to make sure I got right!

I love the flowy feel, but I'll need a but warmer weather before I wear them, rather than the snow we've had this week!!!

 

I also fancy making a shorts version to wear when skating in the summer - need to raid my fabric stash!!!!!!

Cute Culottes

I made culottes and the fit (kind of)!
I had seen the curved yoke culottes in the May issue of Burdastyle magazine, and thought they would be perfect for the summer.

 
I bought a cotton and linen mix fabric from 1st for Fabrics in Longbenton, which was a very well behaved fabric and comfy to wear.

The pattern is quite easy to sew up, as long as you know what you're doing with curved seams and only has 4 pattern pieces.

I made the size 38. I would normally go for a 40 at the hip and grade down to the waist, but these are wide and the 38 is fine. In fact it could do with just a smidge off the waist as I founf that the culottes teneded to slide down a little (as you can see in the picture) and a couple of cm off at the waist would prevent that from happening.

I've already made the adjustmwnt to the pattern and will be making at least one more pair this year.
I also think they'd be great shorter or made as full length wide trousers.

There is a side zip on the left, but I think a pocket on the right side would be useful, so will add one in next time.

The top is also Burdastyle cap sleeve crop top from 2015