Friday 6 October 2023

Traveller Trousers

 




After my last make, which I love, I decided to try similar shape trousers, but with some unusual features. These are made from a pattern from the Burdastyle Magazine from a few years ago and are named the traveller trousers. I thought they'd be perfect in this purple linen. The sample in the magazine looked like it was made in a similar weight fabric to linen, so I went ahead with these.

 
 
Prior to making these, I prewashed the fabric as linen can sometimes shrink a little on its first wash and it always seems to have a nicer hand once it’s been laundered. I also carefully measured the pattern pieces to determine which size to make.
 

The illustration seems to imply these are a very loose fit, but the magazine photos looked quite snug. I did not want snug trousers! I usually cut a size 38 in Burdatyle, but I’m aware that my hips are at least a size 40 right now, mostly down to skating developing my thighs and butt!!!!

I ended up tracing the 42 leg, grading to 40 at the high hip and waist - I should have gone for the 38 at the waist!!!!!! There are lots of adjustment seams, but due to the construction methods, the back waistband is trickier to adjust once sewn.

The pattern features unusual seaming and pockets. There is a side insert that has two pockets, one at hip level and a deeper one at the thigh. The inserts then curve to a point at mid-calf where the front and back legs join. This pocket insert makes this at least an intermediate make and I wouldn’t advise it for beginners. The front has a fly and ties that are secured into the side seam of the waistband and run through the waistband as a channel, popping out through buttonholes.

It’s a very interesting design and was nice to sew in this fabric. I’m still in two minds about it and I think I should have graded to a smaller waist size. I ended up adding some elastic into the back waist, which is less than ideal to accommodate my sizing error. I do like the fit on the hip and legs though and this is a great one for travelling - It’d definitely going in my holiday suitcase. I just wish I’d taken a little more time to get the waistband fit right - hey but you live and learn and I made it work.

 

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