Burdastyle #116 07/2012

This simple top is becoming one of my favourites.

In the Burdastyle magazine, it's a double layer top and made in a very drapey fabric. It has raglan shoulders and a front/ back - simples. I've made this 4 times now and I have a few tweaks to the pattern.

The neckline is gathered all the way around -I've always done this, but it can make the shoulders a bit bunched. So in my next version, I'll take some width out at the shoulders and leave the gathers at the front and back only.

I also taped the front and back shoulder pieces together to create a single piece, it means cutting out can be a bit quicker.
If I sew bias binding at the armhole I usually take about 1cm of the whole edge to account for lack of hem. I leave it if I am going to hem the edge.

I always finish the neck edge with a bias binding and this cotton is brilliant for making your own. It presses well and keeps the crease - very well behaved fabric but still soft and smooth. I bought it from The Sewing Box in Morpeth - they're moving premises on Monday so do pay them a visit if you're in the area.

I extend the bias binding to form ties. it makes for a quick and easy fastening and means I don't need to bother sewing rouleau loops or using plastic buttons, so this is a plastic-free make.

I also sew the back with a Centre back seam. Again this is laziness on my part and it just makes making a keyhole opening a bit quicker and easier.

All in all this make took about 1.5 hrs from cutting out to final try on and I did redo the armhole binding as I forgot to take the hem allowance off the first time. I've already worn this to work this week. I think it will be in heavy rotation.

Fabric 1m £6
Thread from the stash
Pattern from a Burdastyle magazine I already owned.

Long shift dress - Gertie/ burdastyle frankenpattern

I started this dress way back in September 2017. I had big plans, big, big plans and they came to nought.
I was going to make the surplice dress from Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book. I made two muslin's of the bodice and wasn't happy with the fit of either.
Then I tried the Wiggle dress from Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, most of this fit ok, but I just don't think it was right for the fabric I had.
So my Solution - Franken Pattern - two tried and true patterns merged together.
I used Burdastyle Seamed dress 08/2012#120 for the bodice and the Pencil Skirt from Gertie's new book for better sewing.

My fabric is a floral woven cotton with just a bit of stretch and I have some white Tana lawn for the lining.

I assembled the front and back panels for the dress in both the shell fabric and lining and then put in the invisible zip.

Not a bad job at all. The next step was to sew the dress and facing together at the neck edge and then understitch. This gives a great finish and prevents the lining from peeking out. I sewed the armholes using the burrito method. This is my go-to way of sewing an all in one facing or lining. It's always worth cutting the lining a few mm narrower than the shoulders to allow the fabric to roll under. It also gives an opportunity to adjust the fit at the side seams too.

That's what I did next - sewing up the side seams, just on the dress fabric initially as I needed to check the fit. It's a good job I did as I needed to take in quite a bit at the waist and grading out to the hip. I pinned the dress and marked the new seamlines in chalk. I also pegged the skirt about 5cm at the hem.

Then Nothing!

I

Did

Nothing

For

Two

Months.

This dress had been thrown over the back of a chair for two months. Granted I've been busy, I hadn't blogged in that time, or even done much sewing. I'd fallen out of love with the dress, didn't like the fabric, couldn't be bothered with it.

Then after Christmas (yes  - that's when I finished it!) I had a couple of spare hours, the right colour thread in the machine and decided to sew up the alterations. I'm so glad I did. As soon as the side seams had been adjusted the dress looked so much better on and I like it again.

I even took the time to hand stitch the hem!

This make hasn't ben worm yet as I haven't had the occasion to wear it, but I did finally get my hubby to take photos for me last week - so I can post it at last. I'm hoping to wear it to a party in a couple of weeks.

Have you ever taken so long to make something that you've changed your mind frequently about it?