Tuesday, 12 March 2013

I hate sleeves

I've done a lot of reading about ease in sleeves. I read Kathleen's posts on Fashion Incubator, and various books on couture sewing. and frankly I'm confused and a bit annoyed!

If I'm honest - I really don't like ease, unless its a design feature! I like jackets/ shirts to have a smooth sleeve head, and while steaming out the ease is great with some fabrics. Others just look rubbish.

I'm in the process of making a Bolero jacket from a 2012 edition of Burdastyle. and I still think there's too much ease in the sleeve head - I've deliberately gathered it at the shoulder. I know it's not the "right" thing to do - but to be honest I haven't got time to make a muslin, test it, redraft and ensure the seams are true. Is it too much to ask for the pattern company to do this for me - is it just laziness on their part? (or mine)

It just seams like every single pattern I come across had loads of ease at the shoulder and even when I take the time to do it "properly" I can often struggle to get all the ease into the armhole! and then struggle to get it even on both sleeves - surely there is an easier way to do this?

What about you?
How do you find sleeve head ease?  - do you like the ease or hate it?
Have you found any good patterns that don't have ease?
Has anyone got a tutorial for reducing ease accurately?
How do I get it right every time?

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