Punk'd

This has got to be the biggest sewing project I have ever undertaken. My hubby asked me to make his outfit for a wedding that we attended this weekend and he was very particular about what he wanted. The design process started months ago when he outlined the type of coat/ jacket he wanted. I began to think about drafting what was required. I tried a couple of other options but eventually ended up using Vogue 1853, you can read all about the pattern and changes that I made to it here.

The suit had to have a punk vibe and was heavily influenced by the work of Vivienne Westwood during the 70’s and 80’s. My hubby wanted bondage-style trousers and braces, a waistcoat and long jacket/ coat, plus a punk-inspired shirt, which you can read about here.

As this was to be worn at a wedding, the concept was that the straps and braces on the trousers and the back of the shirt would not be visible under the coat/ jacket, but once the coat was removed they would be very obvious. As my hubby was preaching at the wedding It was important to him that his suit didn’t distract anyone, whilst being completely and uniquely him! Definitely business at the front and party in the back!

The waistcoat is a standard classic waistcoat, drafted from the instructions in Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. I realised my error once it was drafted as I had used the chest measurement - which for most would be fine, but I should have used the waist measurement for my hubby. I had to make some alterations to the pattern but made a toile to ensure the fit was good. It was a fairly simple construction. As with the coat, I interfaced the front pieces fully and used heavier interfacing for the facing. This worked very well for this fabric. The back and lining were cut in the same navy poly charmeuse that I used to line the coat with.

The trousers were drafted by using a rub-off method from a pair of well-fitting trousers that had jeans styling. I think the back would benefit from being reduced a bit more. This wasn’t evident in the toile, but they are a little loose above the bottom. I constructed these in the same way that I would make a pair of jeans. The back pockets are patch pockets and the front ones are curved. I did line the trousers to the knee, attaching the lining to the waist and fly, which gave a nice neat finish. If I did this again I would probably underline the front and back pieces before putting the pants together! As this would make these sections more stable and support the fabric more.

The bondage straps are removable and secured to the trousers by D-rings at the side seams. There is also an adjustable strap at the centre back, also tightened by D-rings. Buttons were added next to the centre back and front belt loops so that braces can be attached.

I tried to match the pattern, where possible and I’m happy with the results. My hubby is certainly very happy and received lots of positive comments about his suit at the wedding on Saturday. Although the drafting and making of these items have taken quite a bit of thought and effort. I now have patterns that fit my husband and I can adapt them to suit what he might need in the future. I love this punk styling and it’s probably the only suit he’s ever had that completely sums him up. This is John in his element!