Purple Haze

I have had it in mind to make a velvet suit for years and when I saw this purple cotton velvet I knew it would be a perfect choice. The only question was what style to go for. I considered a biker style jacket, puff sleeve jacket but then settled on this more fitted style with a curved front hem and patch pockets. You'll notice that there are not any pockets on this - that’s because I didn’t like the look of them when I pinned them on and decided to leave them off.

I had initially planned to make wide trousers, but as this fabric is relatively narrow, that would have meant a lot more length was needed and you do tend to end up with a lot of waste fabric in these situations. So I opted for slim-leg trousers, but not too fitted as this fabric has no stretch.

The fabric is glorious but quite delicate. As it is cotton velvet, it can be very easy to fray on the edges along the selvedge edge. It’s also worth overlocking it before prewashing to prevent any unnecessary fraying of the cut edge. It does wash beautifully and presses well. I recommend using a towel against the pile side of the fabric to prevent it becoming flattened during pressing. I also used a press cloth on the reverse.

It is super important to cut all pattern pieces in the same direction so that the ‘nap’ or pile of the fabric lays the same way, as it can appear to be a slightly different tone otherwise. This will require more fabric. For this project, I cut all the pieces in a single layer. It takes longer, but it stops the fabric shifting and allows you to make the best use of pattern placement to avoid wastage. The Jacket and trousers used a total of 4.5m of this fabric and I had a square of about 30cm square left.

Both of the patterns I used were from my stash of Burdastyle Magazines. I haven’t made either before and didn’t make a toile before sewing up. I usually sew a size 38 in Burda and sometimes grade to a 40 at the hip. For this make I made a straight size 38 for the jacket and a size 40 for the trousers, grading to 38 and the waist - I didn’t make any other changes to the pattern.

I think I could have sized down the body of the jacket as it does feel quite big across the bust. I did use some structural elements to support the fabric and improve the fit. The front of the jacket and the upper back is interfaced with a traditional hair canvas and the seems are catch stitched down to create a secure flat seam. An additional layer of batting is added to the upper chest and I used layers of batting from my stash to construct the shoulder pads. This allowed me to tailor the height exactly to what I needed.

I used traditional pad stitching to help shape the collar and lapel. This technique doesn’t work quite as well on this fabric as it does on wool, but it does help. I decided to use bound buttonholes and instantly regretted it. On this fabric, bigger buttonholes would work better in this technique, but the style of the jacket wouldn’t support it. I also felt they were too far from the edge. However, these are small points. The jacket is fully lined with pale pink satin, which I like with the purple velvet. I had enough left from a previous project but had to piece a couple of sections. The instructions for lining the jacket were rather clunky and I’m still not 100% convinced I like the double back vents. I’m going to let these simmer for a bit and decide if I like them or not. I can always sew them closed if I decide they are not for me.

Due to the amount of hand stitching the jacket has taken ages, and family issues have also impacted life recently, so It was a relief when the trousers came together in just a few hours of sewing. In my rush to get them finished, I didn’t really do any fitting and mock-up. Instead, I sewed the side seams with a long basting stitch to allow me to check the fit. I was happy with the outcome. I know they could be more fitted, but I need to be able to sit, walk and bend in them, so I actually like how they have turned out. I didn’t follow any instructions for constructing these as the construction of trousers is pretty straightforward once you’ve made a few pairs! I did make sure the pocket bags were secured in the centre front seam as I can’t stand flappy pockets!!! I used the last of the pink satin for this.

The waistband is interfaced with a firm iron-on interfacing and the inside is hand stitched as top stitching on this fabric can be rather distracting.
Overall I’m pleased with how these turned out. I think as a suit it might get an airing next winter in the run-up to Christmas, but as separates, this will be a lot more versatile. I already have outfits planned for the jacket!

I had to wait until a bright day, as this fabric is almost as difficult as black to photograph!

Red Jeans

Forever I have wanted red jeans. These were not the jeans I imagined when I ordered this fabric but I still love them!!!!!
I am a roller skater and as such clothing that has some stretch and is really close fitting is ideal for my sport. It means I can pop my protective gear over the top and not have fabric bunching up underneath knee pads and crash shorts. I had fully imagined this fabric being a pair of slim-fitting Ginger jeans. However, I made an error in not checking the stretch percentage of this fabric. I knew this denim was a stretch fabric, but it did not have enough stretch for the ginger jeans pattern, so I ended up having a rethink. In my mind, I was aiming to create some wide-leg cargo-style jeans, but I couldn’t decide on the style of patch pockets to use and just ended up making wide-legged jeans - LONG ones.

I often wear my jeans with my platform Doc Marten boots and they can feel a little short, so for this make, I went for super long trousers. I had ordered 2m of the denim as that is what I’d have needed for the Ginger jeans, but I very quickly realised that I was going to struggle to get wide, long trousers out of 2m, I had to employ a bit of creative thinking.

The pattern I had decided to use was the same culotte pattern I used for my last make - it was to hand and I knew it fit and I could just lengthen the pieces. However, I just couldn’t get the pattern pieces to fit side by side on the fabric as it was not quite wide enough and the length I had was too short to place them in a staggered manner, also I find this leaves you with a lot of leftover fabric! I decided that I could afford to narrow the pieces and folded out 1cm on all the leg pieces - losing a total of 4 cm width. I figured that as the fabric had some stretch, and 1.5cm seam allowances I could make this work and adjust the seams if necessary. I was right up to the selvedge edge on some pieces, but these are mostly hidden in the seams of by topstitching. After a lot of head scratching, pattern tetris and careful cutting out I had my pattern pieces all sorted. The jeans came together quickly and I used some cotton poplin for the pocket bags. I even had just enough fabric left to create two back pockets. As I often do when sewing jeans I set up both of my machines so that I can have the top stitching thread on my Bernina and construct the garment on my Pfaff. I find it saves time in the long run.

I am actually very pleased with how these have turned out, despite it being a different make to the one I planned. However at the moment, I do feel I am dressing like a small child in all the primary colours as I’ve worn them with my cropped blue hoodie. They are quite lightweight and I think as the weather warms I might end up wearing these a little more during the summer.

Dancing lights

 

I made this just before Christmas for Minerva Brand Ambassadors. The fabric is the new Minerva range Dancing Lights Loop back french terry. I love this print and that It’s bright and colourful without it being too in your face!
What with the cost of living crisis here in the UK and the freezing temperatures we've been having, I knew that this would have to be a long sleeve top to keep me warm over the winter months. I needed something to layer up and provide a good layer over the winter.

I love a good roll-neck top and have had the Monroe Turtleneck pattern from Tessuti in my stash for a while. I’ve never sewn this up before and wasn’t sure what it would turn out like. But safe to say since finishing it a week ago It has been worn and washed multiple times.

This fabric is perfect for a top like this. I didn’t find it quite as stretchy as I thought it would be but as this top is quite boxy it was not an issue. The fabric is soft and cosy but hasn’t stretched out much when sewing. It washes and wears beautifully and is a dream to sew. I found the edges didn’t curl much, which can be an issue with this type of fabric and it was easy to keep the edges aligned. I constructed this with a narrow zigzag stitch and overlocked seams. I used a stretch needle. The hems were simply turned and zigzagged down.

This is a pretty quick make. The top consists of a front, back, sleeves and collar and due to the boxy design is a very simple sew - suitable for beginners. The top comes in 3 sizes and this is the smallest. The neck is quite tight to pull on over my head - and I have a small head! However, once it’s on it is very comfortable. I also really like the narrow sleeves. These make it easy to layer up and as a skater, I know that I can get my protective gear over the top. I think if I made it again I’d make it a bit longer. It’s OK tucked in my high-waisted jeans, but not so good with lower-cut ones.

I have already styled this with different looks. As in the photos with my recycled denim culottes, with my black skinny Ginger Jeans and underneath my TAL apron dress. It would look fantastic under a pair of dungarees.

I think this might just be a winter/ spring staple. I might even make some more!