Lingering

In my head I titled this post 'Lingering over Lingerie', but it just sounded wrong. What I'm actually doing is wondering if I can make some decent lingerie to fit me. The only sucessful items I've made have been some undies, which I drafted from a RTW pair I liked - I wear these a lot, they are comfy, but not very feminine.

Cloth Habit Watson

I have dipped my toe into bra making before and sewed up a Cloth Habit Watson Bra. I was impressed with the instructions and it all came together nicely. I just wasn't really that impressed with the fit and knew it would take some work to get it right.

Sierra Bralette

I also had a go at the Sierra and Barrett bralettes from Madalynne (both free). Again a sucessful sew, comfy, but neither did anything for my shape and I think this is where my reticence to sew bras has come from. I love the idea of making a bra, but as there are many types of elastics and fabrics to source and a good pattern to find. I've found it all a bit overwhelming and I stalled with my making.

Barrett Bralette

For many years I struggled to find a bra that fit, was comfy and elegant. I have a small bust and I don't really want to shop the Angel range at M&S. I'd been fitted for Bras at M&S and usually a size 36AA was suggested, well first off there were no nice bras in this size. Secondly, they didn't actually fit, the band was too loose and the cups too narrow. When told to try the sister size of 34A, I just found the same issues. I often left the lingerie section feeling fed up and my self esteen left in shreds, as I felt less of a woman because I couldn't find a bra to fit.

M&S padded plunge bra

A few years ago I did a bit of reading. I stopped adding 4/5 inches to my band measurement and instead I just went for the size just above my underbust measurement. I measure 30 3/4 inches underband. So I went for the 32 band. A 32 B cup size was too narrow and uncomfortable, so I went for a 32C. Depending on the make of the bra I will sometimes go for a 34B. However these sizes are still not quite right for me. I have a small bust, but my breasts are wide set and wide. even the 32C and 34B can be too big in the cups, depending on style.

I have found the low front of a plunge bra suits me best and I know that I can get a push up plunge from M&S in a 32C and know that it will fit but over recent months there seem to me much less of this style available. I want to be able to make a bra that will make the most of my shape, without loads of padding and that doesn't squash what little I have flat (Sierra and Barrett I'm looking at you).

Kirstin - Small bobbins

I've been seriously impressed with Kirstin of Small bobbins makes, but most of these seem to be in the Bralette category. However I love her blog and the sew-a-longs are fantastic. It also helps that she faces some of the same issues I do. 

Orange Lingerie - Fenway Bra

I've browsed Orange Lingerie and really quite like the Fenway bra - which I think i'll try when I've got a bit more experience. I know I can't do a full cup - I find long wires really uncomfortable. I'm not adverse to a soft cup bra, and I'd also like a halterneck style to wear under a few tops/ dresses that really need it.

I think I'm going to try the Free Maya Bra from AFI Atelier. I know it will need some significant modifications to make it a more plunge style, but being a free pattern I can try and work out what to look for in bra sewing patterns. I downloaded a group of sister sizes and have made one test version (a while ago, so I'm going to check that this still works for me. - I'll let you know how I get on. I think I'll also revisit the Watson Bra.

My other quandy is fabric and notions. You need a lot of different elastics and fabrics to make a bra, some have stable fabrics and others use stretch. I keep wondering about buying a kit, or just buying individually. The kits I have seen do seem quite pricy and then you need to add shipping on top. I love the fabrics and designs in Small Bobbins shop, but when a kit is about 30 euros, plus shipping to the UK, It seems a lot to be spending on what could be a train wreck. However, I need the right type of fabrics to make sure that the bra will work  before buying the nice ones - do you see my dilema? I'm thinking of buying a few bits from sewing chest as they seem to be quite well stocked and are in the UK. I'm just not sure what to buy.

So where do I go from here? Any suggestions for supplies for making a muslin, that won't cost the earth, before I choose some nice fabrics? Any suggestions for patterns that work really well with a small bust (I am not petite in any way)? Any other knowledge/ books etc that you would recommend? (I already have Lingerie Design - a complete course)