Saturday, 10 December 2011

Oh Na Na, What's my Name?

After berating myself the other day for not being able to draft stuff well; and needing to follow a pattern, I finally produced something - that looks good, fits, is fully lined and is drafted by me.

You may remember the post a while back when I mentioned that Bethan wanted a Rihanna style dress. just like the one she wore on X factor. Like this...

Simple style, if a bit short - so I decided to make a slightly more modest version for Bethan (although at the rate she's growing it won't stay that way for long!).

I drafted a block - using Metric Pattern Cutting (Aldrich) as a guide and scaling down to fit Bethan's measurements. After fitting the muslin I extended the waist downwards (she takes after her mother), added slim waist darts to the back and adjusted the neckline and armhole. you can see the adjustments in red on the photo.

After cutting out the fabric pieces in the outer and lining fabric I neatened the edges by turning and straight stitching.

I sewed the darts and shoulder seams together. then cut a collar from one of my son's old school shirts. and attached it to the neckline - cutting the collar at centre back and neatening with satin stitch.

I then used this technique to add the lining to the bodice. I discovered this earlier this year and I always use it now.

And the bodice is done.

I used a rectangle of fabric three times the length of the waist and about 10cm longer than I wanted the skirt to be - as its a puff ball style. I turned the top edge twice, pressed and stitched a narrow hem as this will sit on top of the bodice. Then I sewed two rows of gathering stitches and eased the skirt to fit. attaching the skirt to the outside of the bodice to create a ruffle.

I did the same gathering stitch to the skirt lining, this was not as full, just slightly eased to allow movement and sewed it to the lining in the normal way.
The bottom edge of the skirt outer was also gathered and sewn to the bottom of the lining to create the puff ball effect. Then I sewed a lapped zipper and hand stitched the lining to the inside of the zip.

So there we have it. One finished dress, One happy girl, One pleased sewist. Hey I know it doesn't really look like Rihanna's dress - but it's so much more appropriate for a little girl.

Pattern - Self Drafted.
Fabric - from a stash at work, and an old school shirt
Notions - Thread (I already had) Zip  - 95p

Soundtrack - Mostly BBC6 Music and a bit of Phatfish (Higher)


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