Free Sewing Pattern Review - 2 tanks

What with the warm weather hitting the UK this week, I decided that a couple of Tank tops would be a perfect addition to my wardrobe. I settled on a couple of free patterns to try and decided to use up the fabric I had in my stash, which mostly meant off cuts and required some careful cutting.

I have had mixed results - so here we go...

First up is the Gathered Back Tank by Life Sew Savory. I was drawn to the relative high neckline and the cute gathers on the back of this pattern. The pattern is easy to download and print and according to the size guide I cut a M. I went straight in and cut two of these tops out as I was certain I was going to love it. The first was a very stretchy sports type fabric - too stretchy for this pattern, probably more suitable for leggings - but I'm not going to wear white based leggings - ever! It turned out too big and has been gifted.

The construction was super simple to follow and the only alteration I made was to turn the back and arm bands over to create a binding rather than a band. After deciding that this version was too big - which I put down to the fabric. I started on another version, using Rico cotton jersey.

I've made a t-shirt in this that I wear all the time (worn with my Burnside bibs here), but there was very little left over and once cut out I realised that the fabric was upside down. Not put off, I sewed it up anyway, thinking that it might make decent loungewear.

On this version the bands really did stretch out. I knew that they were not perfect and it can depend on the fabric choice as to what length to cut. But I went with the instructions and it just didn't work. I think if I'm honest the armholes are too low for my liking. I also found there to be too much fabric in the gathers at the back. In a knit I think this needs to be a lot less. I won't be wearing this and I'll turn it into underwear.

So for me this pattern is a fail. However it could be redeemable. I think that it would work perfectly well in a lightweight woven and actually be quite cute. If you are going to try this I strongly advise sizing down and reducing the gathers at the back.

Secondly I tried the Lago Tank by Itch to Stitch. I had more success with this one; this could be down to fabric choice though. I used a remnant of viscose jersey that I had made a top from last year. There was very little left and it did require careful cutting. I actually cut the whole top in one piece, which means I omited the waist shaping and kept straight side seams - this was just so I could squeeze the top out of the small amount of fabric I had left. It's a super quick sew. Side seams and shoulders then the neckband and arm bands were sewn in the round. I misjudged the back and got a few puckers, but not enough to unpick and do it again. I didn't bother matching notches, I just pinned at half and quarter marks and stretched to fit.

I sewed and topstitched with a narrow zigzag on my Bernina and used a jersey needle. I had completely forgotted I'd bought at stretch twin needed for top stitching like this, but remembered in time to try it on the hem and it worked perfectly.

I've already worn this top twice this week - so it's definately on the winners list.

Do you have a free pattern that is an absolute go to?

Burdastyle Waistcoat - Looking swell.

Ever since I made my wide-legged wool trousers back in the winter. I had wanted to make an accompanying waistcoat. I'd thought about a jacket, but there wasn't enough fabric for that.

So off I went, hunting through my stash of Burdastyle magazines until I found this pattern. It's #134 from 12/2012. The only image I can fin on line is for the pattern that includes sleeves - which is #135. It's basically the same pattern though.

Unusually for a waistcoat, I cut the outer back piece from the main fabric rather than from lining fabric. I made the size 38 - which is my usual size in Burda and the fit was pretty good. I have a small waist and often need to adjust patterns here, so on this pattern, I increased the width of the darts to give better back shaping - but that was the only alteration I made to the pattern. It's lined with lining fabric from my stash.

It was a good job I had some spare fabric as I made a massive mess on the welt pocket first time around. I followed Burdstyle's (rather sparse) instructions, but due to the fabric being prone to fraying and that I tried to rush and didn't interface properly the welt turned out to be a real mess.

So I recut the front pieces - just enough fabric left. I then used a tried and tested way of making welt pockets - using a similar technique to a bound buttonhole. This gave a much better finish and I've pleased with the result.

I have a bit of a buttonhole sewing session and then photography session the other week. This was done apart from the buttonholes at the start of lockdown, but as I had a few projects to sew buttonholes on I used the one-step buttonhole function on my Janome. I was a little concerned that the fabric would be too thick for the machine, but it handled it well. One buttonhole went a little awry, so the stitch unpick got a bit of use and it was not easy undoing stitches on this fabric.

Overall I'm very pleased with the effect and I like the waistcoat. I can't see it getting much wear at the moment though. as even when I'm at work we are dressing casually and it will be too warm to wear soon. Wearing will have to wait until the autumn I feel. It has a long line and I think it will look great with long dresses. It does emphasise my long torso and It might have been a good idea to make it a little shorter.