Oh So Flattering

Our second beetroot harvest

The last couple of weeks have been a bit crazy. I've also had some time to reflect on a few things and I've made some items that I'm not completely happy with, in light of this my sewjo has upped and gone. I'd like to share a few of my reflections and where I am at the moment.

Flattery:

  

A few days ago I shared one of my makes in a facebook sewing group. It was my peppermint wide-leg pants, I wrote about them here. I didn't ask for any comments, I just shared that I'd made them. Someone from the group decided to tell me that they did not think they were flattering on me and made reference to me asking for honest comments. Now this annoyed the heck out of me - I hadn't asked for comments and certianly not about how something looked on my body.

Now don't get me wrong - I'm all for complimenting something that's been done well. It's perfectly OK to give feedback on how well something has been done (as long as that advice has been asked for). Or even for fitting - again if asked for. However it's not OK to make a judgment about how flattering something is on someone. To do this is to make a judgment about how someone's body conforms to your ideas of how we should look - and that's not OK.

Now we all like compliments, when given honestly and by people we trust. I love it when someone comments on how well I've made something, or the style lines I've used. I'm happy to recieve constructive comments on how to do something better or improve fit, but I will not let someone tell me how I should look, because that is non of their business. I refuse to allow other people's negative options to rent free space in my head.

However, the whole affair has helped me - I now care even less what people think about my body and I will dress it how I like - I suggest you do the same. I will also be very careful about how I comment on the images others share and check my own bias at the door! I wonder what your thoughts are on 'flattering comments".

Sewjo:

I've done a bit of sewing this week. I'm back at school and we are required to wear masks in all communal areas, so I've made some more - this is soul destroying sewing and I hate it. However I have 5 new masks. I used the Dhurata Davies pattern in a small. I like how this pattern comes in different sizes so I can cater for the whole family. It's still tedious sewing though.

I also drafted a skirt, started sewing it and have decided that I don't like it - so it's in the refashion pile. I have also made a couple more bras. I made another Watson bra. 

It's a lace lined with jersey and powermesh for the band. I also tried adding an internal sling, but it was a waste of time - didn't make any difference and I won't include one again - I don't think I really need it. I have realised I need to make a slight alteration to the side seams on the Watson Bra as they slope forwards quite a bit, mainly due to my wide rib cage.

Initially I thought this bra was a wadder. I also used a much wider and stronger elastic for the bottom band than normal and really struggled to fasten it the first time I put it on. However, before wearing it on Friday I gave the elastic a little stretch and fastened it ok - It's very snug, but actually quite comfy. The cradle actually fits as well as an underwire bra would - which is a pleasant surprise.

The second bra was not quite so successful. I made Simplicity 8436. It's the second time I've made this bra. This time I opted to use a size 36 wire (style 9 from Sewing chest) instead of a 34 wire (can't remember the style). This new wire is a much better fit for me and that part I'm really happy about and I think my construction is ok. 

I made a couple of errors, which mean this bra is not quite a winner. Firstly I didn't get the tension right on the elastics, which have led to a slightly odd fit. Secondly I didn't check the width of the strap elastic in the kit I bought - it was 12mm wide and I only had 10mm rings and sliders, so the straps are fixed. Finally the kit came with a single hook and eye fastening and it's too narrow for this design.

I really need something a bit wider. Therefore the band wrinkles a bit. I love the style, but I'm really not convinced that this is drafted particularly well. I've yet to wear this. I'll give it a try, but I'm not holding out much hope for a comfortable day! EDIT: I wore this, and was surprised to find it was very comfy - no issues at all during the day with underwires or straps - super comfy, just need to work on that elastic tension. The Bra fabrics are from The Sewing Machine Guy and Elastics and findings from Sewing Chest.

When I finished both of these bras I was completely fed up, on reflection neither is a failure and after some time to think I'm happier about them.

Reflections:

As work picks up and my working days are much longer I often find I need to create some space. I love the autumn weather, but am desparately hanging on to the days when there is warm sun. I completely enjoyed the walk when I got home from work on Monday.

The sun was warm and the route peaceful. I stuck in my headphones and walked and listened to a podcast (Rob Bell's The RobCast - if you want to look it up - this episode is fantastic - give it a listen). I took time to breathe and smell the air - it has a certain summery/ autumn smell as the warm sand and grass start to cool at the end of the day. It was an hour of bliss in my otherwise hectic day. I need to do this regularly.

 

The autumn term is busy and tiring and I can get quite despondant and anxious at times, often when I feel there is not enough time in the day or issues arise that I have no control over. I'm trying to be intentional about taking time and resting, getting out and walking is important for this and I need to make sure that I do that when I can. 

Over the coming weeks I probably wont sew quite as much as I have been doing. I have a couple of house related projects to complete. I've just oiled the benches in the kitchen (they're solid wood) and we've bought some paint and new handles for the cupboard doors and drawers, so I'll be working on them over the next few weeks. I'm trying to stay chilled and it might mean that I don't post here quite as much as I have been doing over the last few months. You might also see something other than sewing over the coming weeks. I hope you are all keeping well. Take time to invest in you and keep calm and carry on - see you soon.

Peppermint Wrap top - Free Pattern Review

As soon as this pattern was released it went on my to make list. Downloaded straight away, but I've only just got around to making it up. I never look forward to taping together PDF patterns but this one wasn't too onerous. It's a free pattern as part of Peppermint Magazine's Sewing school - you can find the pattern here.

I love that this design has quite a high wrap. I have made a few wrap patterns that have needed some serious adapting to stop them gaping, I've used some additional techniques on this version to help secure a close fitting neckline. There's quite a bit of ease on the pattern and I fall between sizes so I went with the smaller one, which was a size C.

 

The fabric was given to me by Minerva crafts in an exchange for a review and you'll be able to read  it on their blog soon. It's a cotton stretch sateen - printed on one side, not too light, not too heavy. I initially planned to make a jumpsuit, but wanted a greater range of options, so I decided to make two separates that can give a faux Jumpsuit look, pairing this with the peppermint wide leg pants in the same fabric, that I wrote about here.

One of the things I really loved about the instructions, was the construction of the neckline edge and back facing. The front neckline is double folded to create a baby hem, and the clever application of the back facing ensures a smooth neckline and that the shoulder seams are neatly hidden away. I'll use this technique again.

 

 

As my fabric had quite a bit of stretch I did not want the front neckline to stretch out of shape or gape so I reinforced it. I sewed a strip of the stable selvedge edge onto the neckline edge before turning and hemming it. 

 

This does add a little bit of bulk but it's a great way to stabilise edges if you don't have any stay tape/ twill tape to hand. I've also done something similar with thin strips of interfacing or very narrow ribbon. It really does prevent fabric cut on the bias from stretching out.

 

 

The pattern instructions have you construct the top using french seams, which give a beautiful finish on fine fabrics. This fabric had a bit too much body for this type of seam allowance, so I just used my overlocker. 

 

The fabric is printed, which means that one side is plain - and white - it means that if you can see the reverse side, it's not such a great look. I had considered that I'd be able to see the reverse of the fabic on the ties and should I cut two extra and create a facing? I didn't, I went with the instructions, cut a single layer, hemmed the ties, tied the top and EUGH! it looked awful. I cut the ties off, Recut the tie pieces (x4) and assembled them inside out, attached to the bocice front, before turning and securing the opening with top stitching - it looks much better.

 

 

Initially I planned to wear these two pieces together, but found it a bit overwhelming and decided that they look much better as separates. 

 

 

 

I  thought  the top might be a little too short, but it's ok, I would consider adding just a little bit of length next time. It's great with a high waisted skirt/ trousers, but not so good with a lower cut waistline.

 

The coverage of this top is great. It doesnt gape, stays put, is comfy and I like it more than I expected to. win-win.