Heyday Dungas - a review

This is one of those makes that has been on my radar to make forever. I have loved seeing the Lucy and Yak style dungarees that my friends have worn and fancied having a go at making some in a simialr style.

The pattern is the Heyday Dungarees by Waves and Wild (formally Made by Jack's Mum). The pattern is is simple and there are no zips or buttons to install, making this a super easy make for beginners. You do need to be confident sewing through multiple layers of fabric though.

The fabric is an 8 wale cotton corduroy from Minerva and I bought just over two metres for the size medium. I think this ois the perfect weight for this type of make and not too thick.

The sizing is easy to understand and clear guidance is given for the height this is drafted for and how to adjust for differeing heights. I was in two minds about choosing between the small and medium sizes, so I printed the pattern with both lines, but ended up going for the medium. The fit is good on a stable woven, but if I had chosen a fabric with stretch the small would have been a better option.

The instructions are very clear and easy to follow on this pattern and there are two different options for fastenings - loops or buttons. I opted for the loops.

The construction means that all the edges are concealed on the hems and facings and seams are neatened by overlocker and then top stitched. I took my time with this, but it was still a quick make. It would have been even quicker if I hadn't have made a mistake with the pockets and cut a pair upside down, resulting in the nap being the wrong way and the colour looking odd - moral of this story is don't cut out in poor light! I removed them and cut a replacement pair, which was well worth it as now they look fab.

I can't wait to wear these and I hope they might be a summer staple - not to mention perfect skatewear!

Hibernation Dress

AKA The hoodie dress from The Assembly Line.

This is my second version of this dress and I doubt it will be my last. I'm not one to buy patterns on a whim and as I have a large stash of Burdastyle magazines I often can find what I want within their many patterns. However, whilst on holiday in Devon in August I popped into The Natural Fabric Store at Rousdon. They had a beautiful selection of linens, cottons and denims and I bought a couple of metres of a batik cotton lawn, which I'm currently sewing up. I also noticed their selection of patterns and in particular, The Assembly Line patterns, which I'd not seen before and the hoodie dress caught my eye. As I'm an arch procrastinator I didn't buy the pattern there and then. I like to mull over whether or not a pattern is going to be of real use to me. After arriving home I just couldn't get the pattern out of my mind and bought a copy online from The Draper's Daughter.

Hoodie Dress by The Assembly Line.

Minerva Crafts had sent me some Denim, which I used for my first version, but I also decided I needed something a little softer for version number two. So while at #sewupnorth at the end of September I was on the lookout for some cotton sweat-shirting. I didn't find quite what I wanted but ended up buying some cotton baby cord from B&M fabrics. This fabric is soft and has the snuggle factor that I was after without being too heavy.

Once I'd finished my denim version (which you can read about on their blog soon) I started on my cord version. This pattern is very well drafted and the lay plans for fabric are precise. For many independent pattern companies I know I can get away with way less fabric than the pattern states. No so with the Hoodie Dress. It said 2.3m and that is exactly what you need. there is not much wastage at all - even more reason to use this pattern.

The Dress is essentially an A-line dress, brought into a cocoon shape by and encased wide elastic band at the hem. The same type of band is used at the cuffs too. I wasn't really sure about this part of the design and although I sewed the hem band I ended up not using it and adding a different finish there. Instead, I folded a narrow 1cm hem and topstitched it. I used two eyelets at the centre front and threaded an elastic cord through and used a toggle and beads to be able to adjust the length of the elastic. This gives the same shape to the dress as the original, but I think it's a more satisfactory finish. I much prefer it.

I also omitted the elastic cuffs and just sewed a band onto the sleeve, pleating the sleeve fabric to fit. Apart from these two changes I did not alter anything else about the pattern.

The pattern comes in a single size. I was worried about the fit before I sewed this up. I'd ordered a small based on my measurements and thought it might be too narrow across the shoulders. I didn't need to worry as the fit is perfect. The only changes made were those mentioned above.

I honestly think this pattern is a real keeper. with just a few tweaks and hacks it could be really versatile. I already have plans to make a summer version in linen, without the hood and with short sleeves. The bodice section alone would make a fab cropped hoodie in a cosy sweat-shirting and I think it would work as a tunic length too. Loads of options here.

However, as we approach the winter here in my little corner of Northumberland I think both this cosy cord version and its denim sister will be getting quite a few outings.

Back to the 70s

I've done a lot of sewing over the last couple of months towards our handmade Christmas. This was the big project! A corduroy coat for John.

He had seen a cord jacket on a website that he likes, but the fit was very narrow, more like a shirt than a jacket. So I took the features that he liked and drafted a coat pattern. The initial toile was slightly too slim and there was not enough movement in the arms. I changed the sleeve design and also lengthened the jacket. I used a coat that fits well to check my measurements.

The coat has a mandarin style stand collar, chest pockets and welt pockets. I included a yoke effect with design lines from the neck edge to the sleeve. I was going to do bound buttonholes, but the fabric was too tick so I ended up doing these on my Bernina. I have a onestep buttonholer on my Janome machine, but the buttons were too big for it, so it required a 4 step method on the other machine. My Bernina handles thicker fabric much better than the Janome. 

The lining is a lovely bright pink flowery cotton. It really adds a bit of interest to the 1970's styling on the coat.

The coat includes shoulder pads and interfacing support in the upper bacjk and chest areas as well as the facings.

I really was pushed for time with this make as I tried to do it while John was out of the house, and get it finished for Christmas day. But I did make it, and John seems to like it.