Long Shirt

 

This is one of those patterns that I have had on my ‘to make’ list for quite some time.
Since 2012 in fact. It’s pattern 117 from the 04/2012 issue of Burdastyle Magazine.

It’s a tunic-length shirt with a gathered flounce at the back. So it’s business in the front and party in the back. I’ll put it out there that it needs a much thicker belt - I’m going to make an obi style one to go with it and I think it will look fab with my pinstriped waistcoat. I also think it would benefit from being worn with slim trousers or leggings and a high heel. The length does shorten my already short legs!!!!! And accentuating the waist more will help balance my long torso. However, styling issues aside this is an absolute winner, mainly down to the fabric.

 

The fabric is a stable cotton sateen, which I have heard referred to as the dressmaker’s shirting, and I can see why. The hand of the fabric is smooth and silky to the touch. It’s light but keeps its shape and is a perfect transitional fabric. Light enough for cooler summer days and perfect for spring and autumn. I think you all owe me a huge shoutout today. It was the first time I wore this to work. I’m an art teacher and today involved clay, 3D modelling, acrylic paint, lino printing, painting and ink drawing and I still came home with this shirt clean - not sure how!

 

I love the weave on this fabric, it adds to the feel of luxury. It sews and presses beautifully, but I do recommend using a microtex needle to avoid any unwanted puckers.

 

As with most Burdastyle magazine patterns the instructions are minimal; for most patterns, I don’t use them. I normally cut a size 38, but for this shirt, I went down to the size 36 and I’m glad I did - the 38 would have been too big. The collar and cuffs and the top part of the back ‘skirt’ section are interfaced with iron-on interfacing. This is to support the weight of the ruffles, and it does pull back a little here, so it’s definitely needed. The collar is a flat collar designed to be worn open at the neck. I’m not a huge fan of this collar style and prefer a proper shirt collar, but I quite like it here.

 

I didn’t make any alterations for the main body, but I did flatten the sleeve cap and widen the sleeve a little as the original was very slim and I have wider biceps. The hem was sewn using a 3 step baby hem method, which I love to use on curved hems or fine fabric as it gives a nice flat finish.

 

I think this would make a good shirt to wear over the top of a slip dress or beach wear as it’s so light and airy.  Here’s waiting for my holiday to arrive!

 

Traveller Trousers

 

After my last make, which I love, I decided to try similar shape trousers, but with some unusual features. These are made from a pattern from the Burdastyle Magazine from a few years ago and are named the traveller trousers. I thought they'd be perfect in this purple linen. The sample in the magazine looked like it was made in a similar weight fabric to linen, so I went ahead with these.

 

 

Prior to making these, I prewashed the fabric as linen can sometimes shrink a little on its first wash and it always seems to have a nicer hand once it’s been laundered. I also carefully measured the pattern pieces to determine which size to make.

 

The illustration seems to imply these are a very loose fit, but the magazine photos looked quite snug. I did not want snug trousers! I usually cut a size 38 in Burdatyle, but I’m aware that my hips are at least a size 40 right now, mostly down to skating developing my thighs and butt!!!!

I ended up tracing the 42 leg, grading to 40 at the high hip and waist - I should have gone for the 38 at the waist!!!!!! There are lots of adjustment seams, but due to the construction methods, the back waistband is trickier to adjust once sewn.

The pattern features unusual seaming and pockets. There is a side insert that has two pockets, one at hip level and a deeper one at the thigh. The inserts then curve to a point at mid-calf where the front and back legs join. This pocket insert makes this at least an intermediate make and I wouldn’t advise it for beginners. The front has a fly and ties that are secured into the side seam of the waistband and run through the waistband as a channel, popping out through buttonholes.

It’s a very interesting design and was nice to sew in this fabric. I’m still in two minds about it and I think I should have graded to a smaller waist size. I ended up adding some elastic into the back waist, which is less than ideal to accommodate my sizing error. I do like the fit on the hip and legs though and this is a great one for travelling - It’d definitely going in my holiday suitcase. I just wish I’d taken a little more time to get the waistband fit right - hey but you live and learn and I made it work.