Spotty Solina

So we're all fans of Breaking the Pattern by Named Clothing right? Me too. It seems like everything I make from this book is great. Yes, there are a few tweaks I'd make, but unless you have a pattern drafted exactly for you there will always be a few adjustments needed. However, as a rule, the patterns from this book fit me pretty much as drafted.

I've made the Sade blouse - great fit, but I'd make it a little longer for my personal taste, same with the Ruska T-shirt. I've made the Saraste shirtdress twice with no alterations and I cut the shirt version out last night.

But let's get back to the Solina dress. Another win from the Book. The whole idea of this book is that you change and adapt the patterns to suit your style and many of the pattern pieces are interchangeable. I was a little unsure about this pattern when I first saw it and it took some time for me to work out what I was concerned about. I came up with three things:- firstly I was worried about the split - it's not really me; secondly I don't like sleeve ties - I'm an art teacher - they just get in the way and thirdly I thought that the dress might have too little shape at the waist and the pleats would look odd on me. What I loved were the high neck and the midi length and long sleeves.

I decided I needed a transition dress that could go from winter into spring/ autumn to winter. Here in the North East UK it can still be quite chilly even in early May, so transition pieces are the way forward.

I did not make any alterations to the drafting of this dress and cut a straight size 3. I did cut the front on the fold, omitting the CF seam and the vent. I didn't cut the sleeve ties and left the sleeves straight.
Other than this I followed the instructions, they are easy to follow.

I made this dress in a spotty viscose from Minerva and it is the perfect weight for a transition piece. This was a very quick make and once I'd traced the pattern I'd made the dress up in a couple of evenings. and wore it to work the day after I finished it.

So what about my concerns? the vent was omitted so no worries there. The sleeves don't really need the ties, they are slim and have a nice shape anyway. The waist if the dress is actually quite fitted The back is shaped really well with darts and the ties are quite flattering, bringing the dress in just enough. Now I have a long torso and wide shoulders so I often struggle to get patterns to fit well in these areas. Not so this. the fit was spot on! Don't you just love it when that happens, and I'm so glad it did, especially when I didn't bother to make a toile.

Have you made this dress? What did you think?

Maxi Halter Hack

Since getting into sewing 6 years ago I have always been inspired by Gertie and her love of fabrics and pattern adaptations. When I saw this fabric I originally thought it might make a Gertie style Tiki dress. but the fabric lacked the body needed for such a dress. I had bought this fab fabric from B&M fabrics in Leeds. I visited the shop as part of the #sewupnorth event. Once I had realised it would not make a tiki dress I had several other ideas for this fabric. I was going to make a version of my Alexandra dress, but wanted a maxi length and knew there would not be enough to add the ruffles and a long skirt. Then I was going to make the surplice dress from Gertie's Ultimate dress book but again that design requires fabric with more body.

In the end I decided to adapt a basic bodice as I wanted to get the most out of the drape of this fabric.
I took the basic bodice from the Ultimate dress book and cut away most of the shoulder area and closed the bust and waist darts, rotating the fullness to the front neck edge.

I drafted a collar piece. this started as a straight piece, but then I took out wedges along the top to give a curved finish, making sure I marked the shoulder line.

I sewed the back darts as normal and the shortened shoulder seams then gathered the front neckline into the collar. The armholes are finished with a bias facing.

The skirt is essentially the Pencil Skirt from Gertie's new book for better sewing. I used my usual size 6, but had to take in quite a bit at the waist to fit the top. In fact due to the drapey nature of the fabric and lack of lining I ended up taking almost an inch from the side seams of the bodice as the gaped quite a bit.

I added a concealed zip, which finished mid back and two buttons on the collar. A walking slit allows ease of movement. I think this just might get a lot of wear on my holidays.