Easter madness...or how I sewed my way through the first week of the school holidays.

I have been procrastinating.

When I procrastinate, I sew.

I'm not even going to talk about what I should've been doing, but I will talk about the sewing.

This week I made
4 dresses and finished off one jacket.

Dress number 1 - I made a dress from my own self drafted Vivienne Westwood inspired pattern. I used a floral scuba fabric and virtually sewed it all on the overlocker. I do still need to do the hem. pictures to follow when it's finally finished.

Late Feb my hubby bought me Gertie's latest dress pattern - all the way from America. I planned, plotted and decided which fabrics from my stash would make the best dresses.

Dress number 2 - Butterick B6453 view B for my daughter. I had just over 1m left of this fab shot fabric that my sister bought for me at Christmas and that I used to make this dress in January.

I made her bodice in size 8 and skirt graded to 12 at the hip. I did make the mistake of taking the side seams in before adding the facings which meant the top is a little tighter than I would like it to be.

Dress number 3 - The same view for myself - using up some cotton from my stash. There was barely a metre of this and so i had the sew the facings in a different fabric. I cut a size 10 bodice and graded the skirt out to a 14 at the hip.

When I made my muslin the 10 bodice seemed really snug at the waist so I added a couple of mm at the side seams. I wish I hadn't as in both dresses I made I ended up taking the sides in a bit and they could still be a bit tighter. I did pinch out excess at the armscye and under the bust to improve shaping. I ended up having to increase the curve in the front armcye for comfort and also pinched out about 5mm under the bust on the princess seams to help the shaping.

I made fixed straps, as I don't really see the need for sliders on a dress. I know I won't use them. I also sewed the vent at the back like the one from Gertie's pencil skirt from her first book. I also used an invisible zipper as I had one the right size and colour in my stash.

Dress number 4 - Butterick B6453 view A. I sewed this up in a very light weight cotton I picked up in a market in China last summer. It's my last decent sized piece of fabric in my stash. As the fabric was so light I used cotton muslin fabric to underline the bodice pieces. I was going to add it to the skirt too, but thought it would add too much weight and I didn't want to add any strain to the waist seams.

The same adjutsments were made to the bodice as for dress 3. I didn't cut the skirt pieces from the pattern. I just used the full width of the the fabric for the front and the same for the back, adding a CB seam. I also omitted the pockets due to the lightweight nature of the fabric.

I sewed the lapped zip, following Gertie's instructions on the sew along. The finish was great, but I feel like it sticks out a little. I need to work on getting it to sit a little more flush to the dress. Maybe my interfacing was too firm!

I wore this dress today with a petticoat, tights and my favourite black shoes. paired with my red cardy. It was a bit to cold to wear on it's own as it was only about 7 degrees this morning! It will be a fab dress in the hotter days of summer and I'm sure I'll wear it loads on holiday.

The final make of this week was a refashioned wool jacket. Motorbike style, made from a long purple wool coat. I'd been working on this for some time as a gift for my friend Alli. It was her birthday this week, so I had to get it finished. Unfortunately I forgot to take photos so Alli said she'd take some and let me have them later.

Next up - repairs to the curtains. the dog has managed to catch and undo the hem - they are currently in the wash, then will be stitched again.

After that - My Hubby's suit jacket muslin. I've made myslef a jacket, but I'm not too hot on the tailoring techniques I need to use - Back to Gertie's first book! I also need to get on with my next piece of art - experiemental work at the moment.

Trousers Toile Take 3

    

Do you like my fabric?

It's all I could find in the stash that I wasn't planning to use for anything.

Anyway on to the pattern making. As you can see I've made some changes and I hope this will be my final toile. My draft now sits just below my natural waist, which I think is much better proportioned for my shape. I have along torso and small waist compared with my hips. this can lead me to looking like I have short legs if the waistline is too low.

The side seam is true, I think there will always be a bit of excess fabric behind the knee as I have quite an extended calf. These still feel a bit snug on the thich and calf when I sit, which would lead me to allowing a few mm extra if making up in a non stretch fabric

The back is much better, I have added length to the CB seam and scooped fabric at the crotch seam to improve fit. there is still a bit of fabric under the butt so I've1.5 wedge now taken out here. I don't want to take too much as I need to be able to move in the trousers.

I now need to adjust my draft for design. I'm thinking that slant pickets on the front; welt pockets on the back; a front fly and curved waistband. I think this would be best in a stretch woven. They don't have anything I like at my local fabric shop.
I would like plain (exception for polka dot) and either red, navy or black for my first pair. I'm looking for a reasonably priced fabric as I know I may still need to make adjustments.

I don't often buy fabric online as I like to feel the fabric to assess handle, stretch and general feeliness!

Recommendations of good options for slim trousers gratefully accepted. 

Trousers Toile Take Two

So after the horror that was my first attempt at fitted trousers, I decided to draft my own. I used metric pattern cutting for women's wear by Aldrich.

I compared my measurements with the size charts. My hips are two sizes bigger than my waist. So I just used my own measurements rather than going from the chart. I used the instructions for the close fitting trousers and jeans (please excuse the foreshortenting on the photos, my legs are not this short).

The first attempt was better, but I'd sewn wrong sides together and ended up with some seams inside out. There were still some issues.

The fit at the front was better, but the sides at the hip were too big and the waist at the back was also too big. Not to mention the large amount of excess fabric in the back. Initially I pinched out a wedge under the butt, but decided to look at the crotch curve first.

I scooped out more room, both on the front and the back, using some trousers that fit me well as a template. The fit seems to be more comfortable.

You can see that there is still some fabric under the butt and the back waistband is too low.
You can also see that my calf is quite extended this is causing some of the issues in the back.
The waist is still a bit big, which means the front is slipping down a little, which doesn't help the front crotch line.

I pinned out the excess under the butt and folded this out of the pattern.

I also pinned out the vertical excess in the back thigh and transferred this to my pattern, keeping the calf at the original width.

I slimmed the side seams just a little and think I need to draft a curved waistband to accommodate the large difference between my hip and waist and my swayback.

You can see some of my adjustments here.  My draft is getting closer to the silhouette that I'm after, but I'm still not there yet. I think I need a pants fitting book to help with the fine tuning. Looking at getting 'Pants for real people', what do you think about this book?


Ready to make the next toile, think I might make a wide leg draft too - when I've got this one sorted.

Trouser troubles

 

Well Sewists. I need your help.

Sewing skirts and dresses is something I can do well, but pants (trousers) I have only sewn very lose culotte styles in the past. I am determined to get a slim fitting pant pattern that I can use as a base. I really liked the look of Burdastyle Magazine 02/2014 #129. (I sewed 38 at the waist to 40 at the hip and leg. I added 1.5cm SA, but ended up sewing the allowance at 1cm)

This is a pattern drafted for fabric with some stretch. I made my draft in a cotton twill with absoluetly no stretch at all. The muslin is almost identical in measurement to a pair of jeans I have that fit, but are snug. But Denim has a bit more give!

I'm certain if I had made these in a fabric with stretch they would be wearable, but I'd like a pattern that fits really well and I need your advice to help get the best draft from this starting point.

I'm sure there are those of you out there who sew trousers a lot and could offer some advice to help me adjust the pattern for non stretch fabric.

So, what are the issues? (those I can Identify)

Too tight in the lower thigh, just above my knee.

Too tight in the butt.

Too Tight over the calf.

Side seam pulling backwards and gaping pockets

I think there might be some Crotch issues as well, but some of those might resolve with the width issues.

Question is - do I just add at the side seams/ inseam? or do I need to do some slash and spread of the pattern - if so where?

I'd really appreciate it if you could offer any insight to help me resolve this.

It's been a while...

Since I posted. November in fact.
I didn't intend to leave it so long, but hey, life happened and I was busy living it rather than writing about it. Christmas and new year came and went.  and here we are at the end of February beginning of March, Today the sun is shining and last week was the first day of the year when I went to work and arrived home in daylight.

It's now a week after half term and I had a bit of me time. Its been hectic over the last few weeks.
So what have I been up to?

Way back in September, My Daughter and I joined the local Pantomime Society. At the end of January all the hard work came to fruition in a week of performances of "Cinderella in Panto Land". It was great fun and we are both keen to take part again next year.

For Christmas my sister and brother in law bought me this stunning fabric. I had to make it up straight away. I used the Audrey Hepburn inspired pattern from the little black dress book.

 The drafting of the princess seams was a bit out and there was a lot of ease in the back, but a muslin later I had a workable bodice, to which I added a full circle skirt. I still have about 1.5m of this fabric left, so I'll be planning what to do with that (New Gertie dress maybe?)

 

 

 

 

I also used the pale blue/green double gauze I had from Fancy Moon last year to make the Asymmetric blouse from the 4/2014 Burdastyle magazine (this issue is the very best ever, IMHO). There was enought left over to squeeze a sorbetto tank out of. I love the sorbetto and wear the ones I have loads.

My Hubby also bought me burdastyle's digital drafting course, which uses Illustrator. I'd dabbled with Illustrator before, but not very successfully. This course covers the basics of Illustrator as well as drafting and grading using the programme. I've been spending quite a bit of time doing this and now have a workable t shirt pattern - more on that at another time! I'm also using the skills I've learnt to create a digital version of one of my drawings for a banner for church.

I have plenty of projects in the planning stages -a suit for my hubby; a refashioned coat; trousers and jeans. A dress inspired by one I saw last summer and of course party dresses. Too much cake, but I just can't help it.

I've also been working on a proposal for a participatory arts project. I'm still in the early stages of development but can't wait to get started.

My daughter is studying GCSE art, so we had a painting day yesterday (well 1.5 hrs), we did a bit of portaiture work. the proportions aren't great, but it was more about the technique than details. It's ages since I worked like this and I have a tendency to over work paintings. I need to know when to stop. but i'll use it as a demo piece for my students. I think my daiughter is really pleased with her version and I think she'll take it to school next week.

Art Sale - Pay what you decide.

The Church on the point 120 by 120 cm acrylic on canvas

I'm hoarding art works!
They are no good to anyone stuck in the spare room.

The church on the point - detail

I need to clear some space and raise some funds for my next art project (which I cant wait to share with you!!!!).

The House on the Hill, 50 by 100 cm. Acrylic and mixed media on canvas

So I'm selling.
I have a range of work - on canvas and paper, from large to small. All I ask is that you pay what you think it's worth, plus the postage and packing. I'll be sharing works for sale over the next couple of weeks. These are the first three.

The house on the Hill  -  detail

Depending where you live will affect the cost (within the UK most postage will be under £20). I'm willing to post world wide, but please be aware my work sometimes contains, grass, sand and other natural materials which can be restricted for import.

Night Sky. 50 by 100 cm, Acrylic on Canvas

Message me if you are interested or find my event on facebook.

60's Shift Dress AKA Awesome Autumn Dress

Have you ever made a dress that epitomised the seasons?
I think this dress is my most amazing autumn dress. But it's also rather 60's in style.

Last week it was the school half term here. I took time to have a break and did a bit of sewing too. After making my Vivienne Westwood dress I had some fabric left. enough to make a skirt for myself and my daughter, but more on that another time. I also decided to make this dress. It's not the first time I'd used this pattern from Burdastyle 09/2015. I made my handbag dress from the same pattern last year.

I really wanted a long sleeve version and was considering drafting sleeve, when a closer look at the magazine revealed that there was a long sleeve option for this dress, but the sleeves were narrow and I wanted something that fit the 60's vibe a bit more.

The sleeve was a two piece one with a seam running from the shoulder to the hem. I decided that Id like to make a one piece sleeve, similar to a bishop sleeve. The bicep line was pretty narrow, so I spread the sleeve to keep the armscye line the same, but add more width and reduce the sleeve head slightly I lengthened the sleeve slightly and widened the hep to allow the hem to be gathered into a bias band at the wrist. The sleeves are very well drafted for this pattern and went in beautifully, first time, with no trouble at all.

I added the funnel neck collar, and like how it sticks up. It's actually very soft and comfy to wear.

I made the dress in a very very fine cotton corduroy. Its so fine that it only feels slightly textured. The fabric was bought from a market in Hengyang (Hunan province), when I was there in the summer and cost about £8. I bought the zip there too that cost about 40p. It's an invisible zip, the kind with the nylon tape. I prefer the cotton tape ones as the stretch less. but as I hand basted the zip in place first there was no issue with it.

I think I'm going to get a lot of wear from this dress over the cooler months.

Have you every used Lightroom for your photos? I used it for these ones and tried to achieve a more vintage effect with it. It was my first attempt at using the programme and I've got a lot to learn! The photos were over exposed to start with and I should have worked with the raw files to try to correct this a bit, but as they are so big I ended up deleting them to make space for other things. What tips do you have for working with Lightroom?