Sewing top 5: Misses

 

Second post inspired by the Sewcialists sewing tops hashtag -  #sewingtop5. This one is the misses, those items that weren't quite right. Thankfully there have not been too many of these this year.

First up.

Gathered back tank

This was a free pattern and I tried it twice, it was just huge and gapey and I didn't like it.

 

Simplicity 8436

This is a Madalynne underwired bra. I love the design. I managed to get these to fit, but there is just something about it that is off. I made 3 versions. first up a cream lace version. I think my wires were too short here and they really dig into the chest wall. I think it's the poor qulaity channeling. I also had issues with the underarm edge. The second version I tried in a stretch woven and it was just horrific and went in the scrap pile. For verion 3 I tried a bigger wire size and invested in better underwire chanelling. It's better, but now I think I want to widen the back band as it's very narrow and not supportive.

 

Cleo Dungaree dress

There is nothing wrong with this. I'm just not going to wear it. I'm not sure the fabric choice is really me. It's modelled here by my daughter. I just don't find myself choosing this, which is a shame.

Faux Jumpsuit

This is a hit and a miss. I really thought I wanted a wrap style jumpsuit. I really loved this fabric. I made this in two pieces, both free patterns from peppermint magazine. I love the wide leg pants. I'm not 100% sure about the top, but it's quite nice, but together it's just way off!!!!

Denim Wrap skirt

I didn't lose anything with this one. It's ok, the fabric was a scrap I had in my stash and the pattern was one I recieved from a lady on Freecycle. Again, nothing wrong with it, but I think it needs a bit of tweaking to make it a really good option. I might make this again. I might wear it again, but again, I'm just not choosing to wear it.

So What are your misses for 2020? 

Next Up: goals for 2021

Sewing top 5 - Hits

Well it's certainly been an interesting year, but in search of some normality I decided to take part in the Sewcialists sewing top 5's of 2020 and today it's the hits!!!!

These are the sewing wins of 2020. Those Items that have recieved a lot of love or I feel have challenged my sewing skills in a good way, (Links will take you to the original post), so here goes...

First up

Hoodie Parka

This is a great pattern from The Assembly Line. It's an unlined coat, but I added a lining and despite not wearing it much when I first made it (thanks Lockdown) I have worn it almost daily since September and haven't yet swiched into true winterwear as this is perfect for work.

Solina Dress 

This is from the Breaking the Pattern book from Named clothing. I'd seen a few of these made up last year and loved the midi length and the slight fullness - not going complete wilder gown over here as I know it won't suit me, but this dress has been a firm favourite and worn weekly since it was made in the spring. It's been a great addition to my work wardrobe.

Lago Tank

This freebie from Itch to stitch patterns was a scrap buster and got a boat load of wear over the summer. I didn't expect it to be great, but I've loved wearing it - yes I know the back neckline puckers a bit, but it's been perfect for pairing with my tatty refashioned jean shorts and hanging around in the garden.

Layered Shirt

This was my first ambitious project of the year. I'd had this design pinned for ages and the instructions/ pattern layout are from Studio Faro. I drafted it using the Saraste shirt as a basic block and was incredibly happy that it turned out so well. I wore it until the weather cooled and sleeveless cotton tops are just a bit unseasonal - but I'm sure it will be worn next year.

Finally, my most recent make

Wool coat

I used proper tailoring techniques and really took my time with this. I really love it, but haven't had cause to wear it yet. Maybe when Covid restrictions ease it will get some wear. its way too good for tramping around in the rain and mud - which is all I seem to do at the moment!!!

What are your top 5 things of 2020?

Next Up: Sewing Misses - I'll be hard pressed to keep it to 5!!!!

Classy Coat - Burdastyle 119 11/2012

Hold tight, this a photo heavy post! 

I've toyed with a bit of coat making this year and learnt a few skills along the way, but I really wanted to have a go at making a good wool winter coat with proper tailoring and everything!!!! So when Minerva offered me the chance to review this amazing Lady McElroy wool blend coating I jumped at the chance. I recieved the fabric in return for a review, which you can read here.

I don't make coats unless I need them. Last winter I had identified that my smart winter coat was well past it's best. The cuffs were fraying, the lining was worn in places and the faux leather piping had split. The colour had faded a lot too. I knew I needed a replacement, but I'm determined to use the fabric of the old coat in some way too.

I thought long and hard about the style of coat that I wanted to have. It needed to be at least knee length; have a proper fastening rather than a tie belt; be formal enough to wear for special occassions and also fine to wear casually, if I so wished, and to top it all off a classic style that is not going to date. After browsing my burdastyle magazines and paper patterns, I eventually settled on style 119 from 11/2012. I think I'd ear marked this when the magazine first came out, but never had cause to make it.

This coat is made using some more traditional tailoring techniques to support the fabric. I bought some traditional interfacing and shoulder pads from Minerva and purchased the lining from The Sewing Machine Guy, which is my local fabric store (If you are ever in South east Northumberland do go and check it out!!!). As Burdastyle Magazine instructions are very, very brief I used a range of other resources to help me understand the construction. In short I referred to Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaffer, The coat sew along on Gertie's new blog for better sewing and Gerties's new book for better sewing.

First Up I prepped the fabric. Normally I'd wash my fabrics in the machine, but as this blend has a very high wool content, I used my iron to steam the fabric, just hovering the iron over the fabric to allow the steam to penetrate it. I then let this dry. The traditional interfacing was prepared by soaking in a cold bath for and hour, leaving to dry naturally and then gently pressing.

While I was waiting for the fabric to dry. I traced the pattern - In Burdastyle, I usually cut a size 38, but as this is an overcoat, I decided that I'd go up a size and cut the 40. I did a pin fitting of the tissue before cutting the fabric and decided it was fine. Now the coat is finished I think the 38 would have been a slightly better fit, but the 40 is actually ok. It's not overly big and I'll be able to wear my thick jumpers underneath it!!!!

Once the main pieces were cut out, I cut the interfacing. I completely interlined the front, side front and collars. The back was underlined with cotton and the interfacing was used as a back stay and added at the hem edge and the sleeve cuffs.

 

The interfacing was permanently hand basted to the wrong side of the fabric. Once the front pieces were interfaced, I added a second layer of the interfacing above the bust as a chest piece to increase the stability in this area. I taped the roll line and pad stitched the lapels. I used Gertie's instructions for this and had a watch of her youtube tutorials. I also made bound buttonholes, which I think I'm getting better at.

Once the bound buttonholes are made, I baste them closed during construction. I also make a matching window in the facing. To reduce bulk I used a small square of organza, which prevents the edges fraying and allows them to be neat. These are then hand stitched in place.

I basted the coat together, without the sleeves in, to check the fit. I ended up taking a little bit off the side back and centre back seams to create a little more shaping at the back as it's quite a straight design. The pockets are easy as they are inseam, so no fussy welt pockets to stress over!

Once I was happy with the fit, I use a catch stitch to secure the seam allowances and then constructed and inserted the sleeves. I don't have a sleeve board but find a suitable alternative is a rolling pin rolled in a towel.

The hems were pressed up and then the collar and facing were attached. Once this was done the hems were catch stitched in place and the shoulderpads and sleeve heads were stitched in. The lining was then constructed and added along the edge of the facing and the sleeves were bagged, which gives a neat finish.

I decided that I would hand stitch the hems so that I had greater control over the vent.

It was finished with 4 buttons (plus one on the inside) and a final steam press.

I really do love the classy lines of this coat. It will be easy to wear in many situations and I hope that it will last for many years to come. 

 

 

 

Horse, Horse, Tiger, Tiger

 

Have you ever discovered a phrase in another language that you just love? This is one of those phrases - I learnt this when in China a few years ago doing some charity work. Some of the charity staff told me this phrase, 'mǎmǎhūhū'. It is translated as horse, horse, tiger, tiger and generally means a bit so-so - I'm feeling a bit horse, horse about this and also a bit tiger, tiger. It's far more decriptive than so-so.

Anyway this phrase sums up this make in more than one way. I love it and dislike it almost in equal measure. to the point where it will get worn and i'll enjoy it and it looks good, but there are a couple of issues that let the whole thing down.

Firstly let me just say how much I love the TIGER print viscose challis from Minerva. I was gifted the fabric in return for a review which you can find here.

I knew what I wanted to make with this, It's the Victoria Blouse from Fibre Mood. I'm a sucker for a high neck blouse and I love the styling. I was going to make this from an eyelet cotton that I had in my stash, but there wasn't enough of it. So when I saw this fabric I knew it was a perfect match.

 

The PDF come with layers so you can print just your size - so I looked at the measurement chart and cut a size 40. It's loose fitting, so I might have got away with the 38, but I have quite broad shoulders so I went with the 40 and it's fine. Do be aware that you need to add seam allowances to this pattern. The instructions have you use different seam allowance widths at different places - I just went with a straight 1cm all over.

 

The instructions are generally ok, but there a couple of parts that are not that clear and could be confusing for a beginner sewist. However, if you make tops regularly this is not a difficult make. I did decide to make a couple of alterations to the fastenings. The pattern calls for a hook and eye fastening at the neck and press studs at the wrist. I decided to use small round buttons and rouleux loops to fasten these instead.

As the fabric is a quite light I decided to double the yoke. Mainly to keep the insides neat, but also to provide a bit more stability. I found that this fabric was quite easy to work with and wasn't too shifty to cut and sew.

The blouse sewed up really well and all the pattern makings matched beautifully. I really loved the finish of the blouse and the styling. However there were a couple of things that I feel let the pattern design down. Fiirstly is a small issue of the back slit opening. It's just too long. I will be making this much shorter next time.

 

The main issue was the sleeves. The blouse is loose fitting and really would benefit from shirt style sleeves, with a flatter sleeve head. The one drafted has quite a steep sleeve head and this works really well for a fitted bodice, but isn't so comfy for a loose blouse. It makes the top feel tight across the back and top of the arm which it actually isn't. I think I can live with the blouse as it is, but I've altered them for my next version.

Here is what I did:

Draw a horizontal line perpendicular to the grainline at the bottom of the sleeve head and a vertical line from the top of the sleeve head to hem, parallel to the grainline. 

Cut from the hem to the top of the sleeve head, leaving a hinge of paper. Cut along the horizontal line and leave a hinge at the sides. I also cut a couple more lines from the centre point to the sleeve head curve. 

 

Then swing the sleeve open to widen and flatten the sleeve head. I then closed the hem back up. 

 

I stuck the pattern onto another pieces of paper and then retraced the new sleeve pattern. 

 

The sleeve now has a flatter sleeve head and wider bicep, which should allow more movement on this loose fitting blouse.

Boden inspired culottes

 

I do quite like Boden clothes and style, but rarely buy from them. They are just out of my price range and as someone who enjoys making her own clothes, I'd rather construct something I know will fit perfectly. These culottes were inspired by this Boden Skirt.

I prefer trousers to skirts as a rule - especially in the summer (I've lived in shorts this year - cut off jeans ones mostly). Anyway I decided to make the Culottes instead. I recieved this fabric from Minerva in exchange for my honest review which you can read in full here.

Once finished, I wasn't sure I was going to like them. I'n not really convinced about the pleats and pockets on these, but they have been a regular in my work wardrobe over September. Sadly packed away now as the fabric is super light and not suitable for the cooler weather. I have had lots of compliments when wearing them, and they do sum up my pesonality. I think they will definitely make an appearance when we get around to next spring and summer.

Oh the Horror!

I experienced the horror of an unexpected sewing disaster last week. It was also potentially an expensive disaster (and still is)!

So, what awful expreience could possibly befall a sewist? 

Not enough fabric? 

Cutting a hole while trimming/ slicing buttonholes?

Melting fabric with a too hot iron?

Fabric shrinking once the garment was made?

I have all these happen to me in the past - but this was not the issue I faced recently.

I'll begin at the beginning...

Waaaay back, like summer 2019, I was on a course in london and happeneed to spot this beautiful bamboo silk in a shop close to where the course was being held, but at £18 per metre it was out of my budget at the time. I put a couple of metres of this fabric on my Christmas list for last year and Santa delivered the beautiful soft and drapy fabric.

I knew it was precious and would need careful handling. I consided what I would make with it very, very carefully. I wanted a shirt with a bow, so I settled on the Saraste shirt from breaking the pattern and added a separate tie, that could be used as a bow. I washed my fabric and made up the shirt, completing it just as lockdown started. You can read all about the make in this blog post.

Not much call for shirts during lockdown, so it didn't get worn until a couple of weeks ago. Worn, popped in the wash on the recommended cycle (the same way I'd washed it before making), and it came out with the collar looking like this!

I was horrified. I wasn't sure how this had happened. I had trimmed the seams, but not too much. I hadn't top-stitched the collar as I wanted a nice flat smooth edge. That turned out to be a big mistake. The undercollar had shredded by at least a cm in some parts. I considered recutting the collar, but I knew that would compromise the collar stand. My option was to try to mend it. On the plus side it was mostly the undercollar that had shredded.

 

I carefully unpicked the outer edge of the collar, where most of the shredding was. I pressed thefabric as flat as possible and reinforced the damaged area with a strip of light fusible interfacing. I couldn't just trim it back as the damaged area was too deep and would have left the collar too narrow. Instead I cut a bias strip from some of the left over fabric, it was long enough to go the full length of the collar edge. I stitched this over the damaged area and pressed it to give enough width to complete the edge and seam.

 

The edge of the collar was folded to the inside and topstitched fully around the edge. The undercollar has a little ridge where the biast strip is, but I'm hoping that it will hold. The edge is not really as neat as I would like and I don't know how it will stand up to futher washing. I also had to  fold by baby hem over again and sew it a thrird time as it had frayed slighty on places there too. However I was not going to ditch a shirt that cost £40 without trying to save it, especially as I've only worn the blooming thing once.

 

Lesson learnt - interface the heck out of fine fabrics and top stitch ALL collars - even if you don't want to.

What's your sewing nightmare?

In the 'Other than sewing' category

 

Life gets super busy sometimes, don't you think?

The last few weeks have been like that. New routines at work have taken some getting used to by staff and children alike, which has left me feeling tired when I arrive home. Last week I don't think I did much at all in the evenings, apart from crash in front of the TV.

A couple of weeks ago I started to paint the kitchen cupboards and they look really nice, but the layers have paint have made the drawers quite a tight fit and the paint is catching on some of them. So rather than rush it. I'm going to finish the job at half term. The drawers that I've already done need the plane taking to them and then repainting and I'll complete the other doors and drawers too. I just need a good run at it. It doesn't take much time, but it the wole getting set up, waiting for layers of paint to dry and having everything out in our space, rather than drying. I did consider doing some on Saturday last week, but the rain was torrential.

 

Despite the super wet Saturday, John & I still managed to enjoy a rather wet walk with the dog. We avoided the muddy paths and instead headed for the prom. It's safe to say it wasn't busy - so we jumped in a puddle or two and got very wet, calling at the Co-op for a few supplies and the local wool shop for a reel of black thread.

 

 

The thread was for the only make I've finished in the last couple of weeks. Its the Fibre Mood Victoria top. I still need to photograph it and i'll share more once I've done that. I've started a Cleo Pinafore dress, but as i'm so tired I'm taking it quite slowly at the moment. My next big project is a winter coat for me - I have a few patterns in mind and my fabric arrived this week. 

 

This week marked the slightly earlier finish of the school day. We're having a shorter lunch and finishing earlier. I've taken advantage of the warm afternoons to get home early and get out for a decent walk with the dog. After a stressful day It really does calm the mood and give a bit of perspective. I'm relishing these times as I know that after the half term holiday the dark mornings and nights mean I can't get out and walk so easily during the week. My mood can be quite low in the darker months, particularly November and December and I'm aware that I need to get some fresh air and our door exercise.

 

Normally by this point in the year I have thrown myself into Pantomime Society fully and would be enjoying the rehersals, but it's not on at the moment due to covid restrictions and I am missing it.

I also have a few paintings to complete and again I need good light to do these, which is tricky at the moment. Again I hope to be able to grab a weekend or some time at half term to get these finished.